Monday, April 20,2015

Another night of heavy rains, but that didn't prevent us from getting our work done.  We started at Chuolembo Hospital; just a short walk from where I'm staying.   The hospital's primary function is treating HIV/AIDS.  Tom Odeni has worked there for quite some time, and now, Hilda Ayeko has an office there (although she still works for the government).  They were the two individuals that were so helpful in getting the clinic started. We sat with Tom while Hilda was finishing up with a  meeting.  She was only able to join us for a short time as there were other meetings she needed to attend.  They have always been very supportive and have been keeping a watchful eye on the clinic to ensure it's success.  They informed me that there are other government officials that would like to meet us and thank us forthe help that we have provided.  If that is meant to happen, it will happen.  We next headed for Huma Girls Secondary School where they were finally able to level their old laboratory.  

 
Just before construction began, the government decided that there wasn't enough space for the previously approved site.  The school was in the middle of constructing a new lab and the original plan was to build them both at the same time then bring down the old lab.  Plans change, as does the government's mind, so this is what we're left with.  "You've gotta dance with the girl that brung ya."  I'm not sure who said it, or where I first heard it, but it's appropriate.  Within the last week, the lab was finished so the demolished the old one.  It's also helpful that the students are on break right now.  It will take 4-6 weeks to complete the project.  Once finished, the building will be used as an incentive - the best performing students will reside in the new dorm.  This is a very successful and competitive school so that formula should work out well. Merab Nayapola, the school principal, was very upset that the work wasn't done and terribly apologetic.  Hakuna matata.  

The ride back into town was nice.  The red earth is always a nice stark contrast to the lush green vegetation that engulfs this region.  Again, the added water keeps the dust down.  Judging from the sight ahead of us it would appear that we're in for more of the same today/tonight. 

This is one of those photos that needs
little explanation.  Those were 6' long
pieces of timber that the passenger
had to hold so they wouldn't block
cars passing by.

I took the time to take some photos of the sights as we drove.  I sometime see some of the most amazing things.  Some of the shots are pretty self explanatory on their own.  Others need brief description to grasp the gravity of the situation.  Regardless, driving in Kisumu (or anywhere else in Kenya) can be a harrowing experience.  I've mixed in some other pictures that just struck me for one reason or another.  We decided to head back into town today because the president will be there on Tuesday and we didn't want the extra headaches.  It was interesting to see how they were "sprucing up" the city.  The curbs were being painted with black and white squares.  They were hanging Kenyan flags on every corner; despite many of them being tattered and worn.  Pictures of the president along with his cabinet members were hung from light posts.  You'd never know that these people can't stand him.  

FYI, this is NOT a one way street.

The roads were in horrible shape.  We passed dump trucks dropping piles of crushed stone and the

movers that were smoothing them out... and the vehicles that were getting stuck in it.  It was like watching an accident happen.  They're spreading stone that's about 1 1/2 feet thick on a hard dirt surface, then they're directing cars to drive over it.  Who can't see the potential problem with that?  Apparently they can't.

 Today we decided to try a new restaurant called Java (on a recommendation by our driver Elly).  It's located in a relatively new mall in Kisumu called the West End.  It was quite nice.  Job and I had smoothies, but only because the waitress suggested them instead of the shakes we originally ordered.  We should have stuck with our first instinct, but they were pretty good.  A shake
definitely would have been better.  Elly had chicken, Job tried the pork loin and I had the beef (although it was called "flank steak" on the menu, I think I could have argued that point).  The food was very good.  The salad that came with it was phenomenal!  It's seems like forever since I had one and the simple combination of lettuce, cucumbers and tomatoes was perfect.  They also had free wifi which was a nice surprise.  With our bellies full, we headed back to the Masai Market to pick up something that I forgot yesterday.  I couldn't help to grab a few other things as we walked by the shops.  I did manage to grab one of the "toilet angels" I spoke about yesterday.  It's a terrible name, but it describes it pretty accurately (although it's really a candle holder).
The skies to the north were really getting dark, so we started our journey back.  I made a bet with Job (1,000ksh) that he'd fall asleep on the ride back.  I thought it'd be easy money since he has fallen asleep every time.  He told the driver he'd give him 200KSH if he helped him stay awake.  I offered him 500 to help him fall asleep.  He had a wonderful laugh, and that last line really got him going.  His phone went of twice during the trip, and that was enough to perk up Job.  I lost.
More construction on the way back with more sights to see.  The clouds were actually getting worse as we watched this large patch of clear blue sky slowly close up.

I always wondered why you need an
AK-47 at a construction site.

We were dry when we got back, but the rains started promptly at 6.  It's been on again, off again ever since.
I'm sure we'll start the whole process again tomorrow.  This time, however, they'll be no driver... we're walking!

Sunday, April 19, 2015

Today was planned as a day of fun, and it was... almost to the bitter end.

The rain has been pretty constant all week; everyday at 6pm, then on and off through the night.  The roads show it, but it's nice to not have to deal with the dust that's usually kicked up.  With the roads this wet, the only thing that's bothersome is the diesel exhaust.
We left the Peacock at about 9am heading for the Nackumat to pick up some fresh water and supplies (food stuff) for friends of ours that I'll be seeing tomorrow.  While there, Job ran upstairs to the cinema to see what time the movies were playing.  Here's what he came back with...
Success!  It was already about 10:30 when we left the store, so we had time to get to the Masai Market before the movie started.
Two things you need to know about the Masai Market:
1.  There are no Masai there.
2.  It's a barterers mecca.
They start RIDICULOUSLY high.  So much so, that you force yourself to say half of whatever they say.  Then it's back and forth.  I tend to cut to the chase much faster and normally have quite a bit of fun doing it.  The dirt road is lined with lean-to shops - probably 15 on either side.  You can't walk by any of them without hearing, "My bruh-thuh, please come see my shop!"  Every shop has a common wall with their neighbor, so it can be quite overwhelming.  They've got tin roofs so it's like walking into an oven.  Also, you don't usually want to walk inside any of them unless your comfortable having to nudge them out of your way so you can exit - it's an oven that doesn't let you leave.  And never, EVER let them hand you something.  That's the kiss of death.  They won't take it back, and if you try to put it down you can expect to have two more items in your face immediately.  Sounds like fun, right?
Anywho, it was a productive day.  These shop "owners" rarely change so I've got some favorites, although one (Beatrice) got knocked off her perch this time.  She has been replaced by Elizabeth.  This girl knew how to sell!  She didn't start crazy high, but she held her guns and talked endlessly about the quality of the product and the craftsmanship and how you won't find them elsewhere and how she wants to work with me... the majority of the other people can get annoying, but I enjoyed dickering with her.  I'm sure I'll see her again.  I made some good purchases with specific people in mind.  I can't really talk about them, though, because that would ruin the surprise.  Trust me, I did well.  I will say that I was looking for things that I'd never seen before and after purchasing a couple Nativity Scenes, the other shops were onto me and pointed me toward what they had that resemble anything from an angel to... well, anything close to faith-based.  Here's a little something I saw but decided to pass on.  Very cute angel, but... it looked way to much like a toilet.  There, I said it.

We got back in the car and headed over to the cinema.  "Get Hard" was playing at 12:20pm and Job really likes Kevin Hart.  In a country that's filled with cornfields, I fully expected popcorn.  Anyone who has ever been to a movie with me knows that if there's no corn, somebody's gonna get hurt.  Thankfully, they had plenty... and candy... and soda.  If it weren't for the prices, you wouldn't know you were in Kenya!  The ticket was $5.50 - I reserved judgement until I saw the seats.  The popcorn was $1.00.  That was a great deal!  No butter machine, but I'm a purist so it didn't bother me.  We headed to the theater and found that we were the only ones there.  The seats were very typical to what you'd find in the states AND they had the A/C working.  It didn't feel like it at first, but when we exited through the doors the heat hit us like a slap in the face.  I must say that I enjoyed the movie.  Nobody's getting an Oscar, and the story was predictable, but it served it's purpose.  We laughed.  We laughed a lot.  Just what the doctor ordered.

We then headed over to a restaurant for lunch.  Job had tilapia and i had kuku.  Then back to the hotel.  Although the ride between Chuolembo and Kisumu is on a paved road, it's not an easy ride.  The potholes are insanely dangerous (and I live in Rochester!).  Some of them here are over 1' deep and can be anywhere from 2' to 5' wide.  Then you add in the fact that there's only one lane north and one south, so everybody is driving into your lane to save their suspension.  They have some type of communication between drivers using flashing lights and blinkers, but I've never managed to figured out how it works.  All I know is that it's a good idea to look out the window... and keep looking out.  As we began driving up into the hills, the clouds had already begun stacking up.  "Tonight's going to be a doozy," I thought to myself.

We got back to the hotel and headed for my room.  When we turned the corner there were 2 fundis (workers) infant of my door.  The only catch was, the door wasn't attached.  They were installing a new one, and planing it right there in the doorway. Shavings were everywhere.  I clearly couldn't wait in my room, so I took my computer, went outside and had a cold Tusker.  After about 45 minutes I was able to return.  It's a beautiful door, but I would have thought that they'd fix the wall first.  I guess the door was easier.  In case you're curious, that's a picture of the INSIDE of the room.










At about 6:30, the rain started.  Thunder, lightening, and buckets of water!  It's 8:30 now, and it still hasn't stopped.  I'm going to get some shuteye before I get up to watch mass at 6pm (EST).
Lots to do tomorrow, so the extra sleep will come in handy... assuming I get it.
I sent a text to Job about some changes in plans for tomorrow the week.  Here was the end of the exchange.
 Job does NOT like the Masai Market as much as I do.

Saturday, April 18, 2015... Sam's Burial

 Last night I began reviewing the notes I made for my eulogy for Sammy.  Kevin also sent me a wonderful letter that I was hoping to share as well.  I was thinking about having someone translate it so that it's easier to understand.  So much of the crowd will only understand Doluo, and I'd like to make sure that they hear his sentiments - their indicative of the feeling our entire family has towards Sam.
Breakfast was brief.  While I sat and finished, Job ran out to find someplace to print up Kevin's letter. We would later decide that Caleb will translate it for me. We picked him up on our way to Sammy's home.  The rains last night made the roads rather difficult to navigate and we had to get out of the car before reaching our destination because we were stuck in the mud.  Hakuna matata.
As we came upon the grounds, wit one exception,  the tents were full of people.  The main area contained nothing but empty chairs.  Dan's wife (Sam's sister-in-law) insisted that we take a

seat in the second row on the right hand side, so that is exactly what we did.  We would soon learn that this area was reserved for members of the Israel Church of Kenya.  Members were coming from all over Kenya to pay homage to the man they called, "The Commander."  Once again, men were on one side and women on the other with about 15 chairs facing the assembly.  Those chairs were reserved for the area Bishops.  Sam's wives and daughters sat in the front row of the women while his boys occupied the row in front of us.  While we sat, smoke was rising in the distance from the blistering fires that were roaring, indicating the food was being prepared.  That smoke continued well after the ceremony ended.  There were over 500 people there - it takes awhile to cook for that many.  I could see the butcher slaughtering a ram in the background.  I'll be sticking with kuku (chicken).  Not far from the kitchen was Sam's grave.  Sammy and his open casket rested at the entrance to his home.
The ceremony began with singing and prayer and followed a similar flow to what transpired in the church yesterday.

One of the local bishops that I knew was the master of ceremonies.  He was kind enough to request that people spoke as much English as possible for our “vee-zee-tah.”  Yes, that was me.  It fell on deaf ears, though, as most of the eulogies were in Dolu.  I may have been able to figure out a bit if is was Kiswahili, but such was not the case.  Job translated upon request.  We sat through dozens of speakers; dozens.  Sam’s sisters-in-law, brothers-in-law, sister, sons daughters, cousins, uncles, as well as members of his ex-wives families spoke.  Sam’s brother Dan was the last to speak.  The sheer number was impressive, but the content was jaw dropping at times.  The MC was kind enough to give me a synopsis of each speech in English.

I was the 5^th one to be called up.  I told them that I was honored to be among them and that my family held them all in their hearts, and that they would continue to be in our thoughts and prayers.  I commented on Sam’s strength and how he carried himself. I also suggested that we pray for St. Peter, “When Sam greets St Peter with his legendary hug and “Hallow, hallow, hallow,” let’s pray that he doesn’t hug him so tightly that it causes him to drop the keys.”  I got a chuckle from the crowd.

Before handing over the microphone to Caleb who stood off to the side with a copy of Kevin’s letter, I told the congregation that I would let Kevin’s letter speak for our family, adding that his testament would be more powerful than anything I might say.  The truth was that no matter how many times I practice reading the letter myself, I was always brought to tears.  Caleb approached and spoke to the crowd in their native tongue before he began reading.  As I stood a few feet away, he picked up the letter and began reading the words…. IN ENGLISH!  The letter was greeted with applause and this time the MC related the stories Kevin told in Doluo so that everyone heard them.  As we walked away, I said, “Caleb!  What happened?  I could have done that?”  “I’m sorry Adam, but I could not translate it quickly enough.”  No worries, everyone heard it.  John Aguso came to me once I was seated and said, “You did a good thing reading Kevin’s letter.  His words were very strong. Thank you for that.”  Kevin really loved Sam… we all did.

Sam's first born,  Alex

Sam's sister Ann - she was pretty
animated.

The speakers continued to be called up and emerged from tents scattered in what was once Sam’s corn field (he called it his “office”).  At one point, Sam’s eldest sister Ann was talking to his ex-wives.  I leaned over to Job and said, “Is she as angry as she appears to be?”  Oh yeah.  She was casting aspersions on the ladies for leaving Sam. She continued to blame their mothers for not raising them right.  Yikes!  Clearly, this was not going to go unanswered, and sure enough, the ex-wives brothers came up to defend their sisters.  I thought this would be the only time the train went off the tracks, but then the politicians came up.  I’ll get to that later.  The majority of speakers told of Sam’s character, his strength, his honesty and his love. Many also spoke of his prowess on the ceremonial drum used at all services (hence the name, “The Commander).  One son from each wife spoke.  Alex started and gave a wonderful speech about his father and how much he will miss him.  Next came Antoni.  Antoni struggled and Alex rose to his 

Sam's son Antoni

feet and went to his side.  He spoke of how they struggled as children after their mom left and how his father did the best he could.  Sam’s other sons sat with tears in their eyes as Antoni fought through his own.

Others continued to come up; some in pairs, some alone to give testimony about Sam.  The clouds were rolling in and sky was getting quite dark so the man leading the ceremony would cue them when it was time to wrap it up.  They all followed his instruction quite well... then came the politicians.  Local chiefs come to these events so it’s very common.  I guess its akin to having a free audience, and this was  a big one. 

The highest ranking official spoke first, and he called every other politician out of the audience to speak… even the ones that were reluctant to come… even the guy that LOST the last election.  They began to get the crowd fired up and had to be reminded that this was a church and the ceremony was for Sammy.  John Oguso’s patience ran thin and eventually he stepped in to stop it all.

Once they left, we were told that it was time to bury Sam.  We walked to his home and gathered around the casket.  It was lifted so that his feet were at the door and his head was furthest from the house.  This was an absolutely mandatory custom.  “The deceased needs to know that he can walk back home if he needs to, so his feet face the door.”

Interestingly, between two trees there was what I can only describe as a picture display – dozens of headshots in varying sizes.  I thought it was pictures of people who had recently passed.  “No, sah, these are pictures of people hee-yah.”  Wow.  What a racket.  Go to a funeral, have your picture taken, then buy the picture of you sitting at the funeral.  I did tell you that Kenyans document everything, right?  This was an interesting set up, too.  It appeared to be adhesive tape stretched between two trees.  The tape ran vertically and horizontally enabling the people printing the pictures to move them around on a pretty large grid.  Sadly, I never saw mine… although I would have purchased it just to show you.

A procession wandered around the grounds singing and banging drums breaking intermittently so that prayers could be read.  We eventually arrived at Sam’s grave.  While the clergy prayed, the casket was lowered into the ground.  I didn’t notice until afterwards that the crowed was divided as if they were still in the tents – men on one side, women on the other.  Once lowered, each of the boys grabbed a fistful of dirt from shovel and tossed it on the casket.  Tears were flowing pretty freely now.    So was the rain.  I was glad that I gave Alex a cloth that I had.  I should have ripped it in half… I could have used it.  The crowd in front of me started to part, calling me to the front where Sam’s sons were.  A man held out a shovel that the boys used and I grabbed a handful.  When I tossed it onto Sam it made a deafening thud; an exclamation point on the ending of Sam’s life.  I really could have used that cloth.

After that, men from the crowd jumped onto the pile of dirt with two hoes and two shovels and began filling in the hole.  When they grew weary, others would take over.  Job jumped in to do his part as well.  Once that task was complete, the clergy and members of the church continued back to the tents singing and dancing and praising God and Christ.  I found myself standing alone over his grave.  One final “kwaheri” before walking away.  Job told me to be strong.  I was trying. 

As we made our way back to the tents through the wet reddish soil, people stopped me to shake my hand or give me a hug.  Every one of them thanked me for being there.  The rain continued so we made the decision to head back to the hotel.  We stopped to see Dan one more time.  He gave me a hug reminiscent of Sam’s.  We’ll be back to see him and John on Monday.  We got in the car and drove back in silence.

Tomorrow is a new day.

Friday, April 17, 2015

 I’m exhausted.  Seriously exhausted.  I obviously had a lot on my mind because I couldn’t fall asleep to save my life.  Andrea suggested I close my eyes and not open them until I can name all 50 states alphabetically.  I must have had a deprived childhood, because I never learned that song.  No matter,  it didn’t work.  I’m thankful she didn’t suggest the state capitals… I’d probably still be doing them.  I signed onto Facebook and posted, “Wyoming,” to let her know I was finished (that was at about 5am).  Before I could even look away from the computer I heard, “PING!”  She responded with “Montgomery.”  Nuts.  It really made me laugh, though, so I was grateful for that.  I finally closed my eyes around 6:30 and woke up to my alarm at 8.

This little boy caught my
attention early.  I gave him
a nod, and he never left
my side.

Job was waiting outside at a table when I emerged from my room.  I wasn’t feeling tired at the time, but that wouldn’t last.  We had scrambled eggs and bread with tea before walking up to the mortuary where Sam’s body was being kept.  From there, we’ll walk in a procession back to Sam’s church, then his home.  Members from Israel Church will be everywhere, wearing their bright white garments, playing drums, singing and dancing. 
 

When we arrived there were already 6 parishes there.  Parishes were differentiated by flags that looked almost identical except for some red stitching in the white part denoting where they were from.  While we waited for them to prepare Sam’s body for transport, another 3 arrived; singing and dancing the entire time.  They would march at a very slow pace following the wall around the hospital, then out into the street.  Traffic would have to wait for them to clear the way before passing.  There were “commanders” that would run along side the parishioners keeping them organized, stopping traffic and making sure they maintained the same pace.  They never stood still – any of them.  They kept that up for over 2 hours before Sam’s coffin emerged and was placed into the back of a pick up truck.   They didn’t stop then, rather, they began to walk the path to Sam’s home.  It was an exercise that would take another 2 hours.  There was an opportunity to view his body before he was loaded onto the flatbed.  Sam’s brother Dan road with the coffin along with some of his sisters and Sam’s wives.

This brief video will give you a better taste of the
sights and sounds(as well as the pace) of the day.
Make sure you turn your volume down...

By the time we started the journey to his home, there were 9 flags in the procession.  Each time another group would be seen coming, the larger group would go to meet them and the smaller group would melt into the larger and return to the mortuary.  Now, everyone was together.  Job, Caleb and I walked behind the church members and  

 in front of a car that held some of Sam’s sons and the truck carrying the coffin.  As we walked, people ran from their homes to join in the procession.  Friends would come to greet me as we walked by.  

Sam's wives Caroline (red)
and Olive

When we arrived at the church there had to be close to 300 people, most of whom would have to stay outside the church for the service.  I have to tell you something about Kenyans; when possible, they document everything with photos/videos.  You may notice in the pictures people taking photos with cell phones to cameras; I even saw a couple iPads.  It’s tradition and is often difficult to get used to.  I was honored to be allowed into the church, seated off to the side with my friends.  We sat on the right side with all the men – the women were on the other.  Sam’s sons were in the front of the “men’s section” and his wives and sisters were in the front of the “ladies section.”  Remember, we’re still in Kenya. 

Everytime a man spoke, a woman had a turn.  When it came time for music, the men would pick up their drums and the women would lift their metal rings and come together around Sam’s casket that sat in the aisle that previously separated the two groups.  Eventually they would lay down their instruments and return to their seats.  The metal rings were made of steel  and were about the size of a bicycle tire.  I was told that they were removed from various “tanks” (like oil drums).  The smaller ones were taken from automobiles.  They would rhythmically bang on them with something akin to a railroad spike.  They’d been carrying them all day.

Sam's wives Caroline (red)
and Olive

John Aguso

John Aguso led the ceremony and really did a wonderful job.  Sam’s had a rather tumultuous married life that saw both wives leave him.  I felt the tension from their presence yesterday, and it was quite recognizeable today.  After saying several prayers and much singing, he walked among the assembly and called up the wives one at a time to introduce them.  They then stood together on either side of Sam’s casket while John continued talking.  “We are all sinners, and these two ladies are no different.  But that is in the past.  They have done the right thing by returning, but it was a 

difficult thing to do.  Their sins have been forgiven just as Sam’s have.  They are part of this family and part of the church community and that is how they will be treated from this point on.”  Job was translating for me, and this is the watered down version.  The point was made.  “Anyone who disagrees, come forward.”  Silence.  All I could think of was Yule Brenner saying, “So let it be written, so let it be done.”  Many of you will need to take a moment to Google that reference to understand.  We’ll wait. 

John then called up the boys beginning with his first born from his first wife (Olive), Alex (the only member of the clan with dreadlocks like Sam).  Then came the children from Caroline.  Ben was the tallest of the bunch – probably even a bit taller than Sam was.  As he introduced each of them, he commented on the similarities between Ben and Sam and turned around and looked at me and smiled.  I was more of a brother to Sam, but I joined the group just to verify that I was still taller.  John continued on with 

Sam's brother Dan

some stories about Sam and I before I returned to my seat.  I had forgotten that those from other parishes had never seen me.  I was reminded of that fact as they came forward to take my picture at different times during the ceremony.

It ended with Sam being removed from the table and placed on the floor.  One section of the lid was then opened revealing Sam’s torso.  It was time for everyone to see him again, and make an offering to the family.  A bowl was placed on the other end of the coffin and everyone dropped something in it as they passed by.

Eventually everyone left the church and another procession began that walked down a long path and into Sam’s home.  Again following tradition, Sam could not take the easier route straight to his home.  He is not permitted to walk through what was his father’s home so they walked around it.  He then was placed directly in front of his home.

Sam's first wife Olive, and his
grandson Collins

The church sits on the top of a small hill looking down on the clinic, Mbaka Oromo Primary School and Sam’s home.  His corn fields were now occupied by three very large tents similar to the ones used at graduations and weddings.  Resin chairs were stacked high and people would take one with them as they sought refuge from the sun in the shade of the tents.  We sat in one furthest from Sam’s house but there was a constant stream of people coming over to introduce themselves and say “Jambo, karibu,” Hello, welcome.  As custom would dictate, most of these people will stay here all night and continue through the burial ceremony tomorrow.  I needed to return to the hotel and left the group around 6:30/7pm.  We went right to a table to have dinner (we hadn’t eaten since breakfast, although I was smart enough to bring some breakfast bars to snack on) and by the time we sat down, the thunder an lightening started.  We moved inside when the rain started and it was a good thing we did.  It was as if Mother Nature was using a pitcher instead of a watering can.  It rained for several hours.  That meant that the cell signal was terrible.  I tried calling home but had no luck connecting.  I sat down on the bed and started to upload pictures but fell asleep in the middle of the process.  I woke up two hours later at 12:30 and called Andrea with an update.  Although I told her I’d go to sleep, I was wide awake so I took the next couple hours to write this while I uploaded the pictures to the site.  Hopefully, I put it together and get another 5 or 6 hours sleep before the day begins, and hopefully, Andrea won’t be upset that I didn’t go back to bed.

See you after the burial.