Tuesday, February 18, 2025

What a day we had!  The plan was to leave this morning at 8am.  We all walked down for breakfast at 7:45, breakfast was served at 7:50 (a pancake, a hard boiled egg, a sausage arrow root and something else I can’t remember) and Isaac arrived at 8:05.  Perfect timing… or so it seemed.

Making plans here is incredibly difficult because you just never know what could happen.  The plan was to be on the road to Nakuru at 8.  We left the Park Villa at 8:15 (only slightly behind).  Then we got fuel for the car an a canister of propane for cooking at Isaac’s house.  We then had a few “unofficial stops before we started for Nakuru.  We would be much later that even I expected.

The first stop was Isaac’s house.  It’s important to note that I know where Isaac’s house is, and I know how to get there.  This route, though, was not the way.  We were headed out into the rural part of Narok town, in the opposite direction of of the “Isaac’s house” that I know.  We turned down a very narrow dirt road, and drove straight for approximately 200 yards into a large area with approximately 12 homes - none of which was older than 5 years.  Ostensibly, this was anew subdivision.  He made a sharp left, and immediately backed up, then repeated that process until the  cruiser was up against a group of bushes on the side of the road.  We all got out, and Isaac said, “Welcome to my home.”  I said, “What?!  When did this become your home?”  Apparently, 2 years ago.  This  is beautiful.  Painted walls, tiled floors, family room, dining room, big kitchen, and 4 bedrooms.  So every time we spoke on the phone for the last 2 years when he said, “I am working on my home,” and followed it with what the project du jour was, THIS is what he was doing; not fixing the house I was familiar with, but building an entirely new one. Their son Caleb also has a small home within the same compound.  While girls don’t leave their home until they're married, but boys are out of the house when they’re 16.  Upon hearing this custom, Mike looked at Katie and said, “Wow, you would have been living with your parents until just last year.”  This resulted in a lot of laughter.  When I asked Isaac what happened to the old place, he said, “Oh, I’m renting that.”Good for him!  We sat with Caleb and waited for Leah to come out with there newest baby, Tiffany.  At 10 months, she’s
already got 4 teeth and can walk, provided she can hold onto something.  She also dances when she hears music.  I pictured Andrea sitting on the couch next to me, smiling at Tiffan and chatting with Leah about babies and their new home.  She would have loved to be a part of all of this, and I know she’s incredibly sad that she’s not with us.  

Isaac continued to show us around his new home pointing out all the “upgrades” from his previous one.  He’s also got a solar array in case the electricity goes out, and a tank that holds a ridiculous amount of rainwater - so much, that he hasn’t had to buy any since he’s moved in.  It’s been enough to carry him through long periods of draught.

Leah’s sister Joyce lives in the same neighborhood and she came over to scoop up Tiffany; she was watching her for the day, while Leah and Caleb joined us for the trip to Nakuru.  If Tatiana wasn’t in school, I’m sure she’d be watching her.  As a high school freshman, she leaves at 6:30am, and returns home at 6pm.  Those are long days by our standards, but here, it’s just school.

Joyce wrapped a shuka around her and Tiffan, instantly turning it into a baby backpack… her little face sticking out above the material.  She said her goodbyes to everyone and left to return to her home.  We left soon thereafter to begin the 2 hour drive to Nakuru.  Time check: !0:30am.

We were moving along at a pretty good clip, but it seemed like no sooner had we left, had we stopped again.  This time, just on the side of the road.  I looked up the small embankment outside my window to see Isaac’s eldest brother, Alfred, sitting outside his hardware store.  I hopped out of the truck to greet him with a big hug, and he met me halfway with a tooth filled smile.  He had recently retired from teaching, so he bought this hardware store and this is now where he spends his days.  He’s also got a posha mill next door where he grinds corn and wheat into flour.  It’s a really nice setup.  He now has a home on the same family plot where his mother lives.  Isaac explained earlier that after his father died, the sons all received plots so that they cold continue to farm the land.  They also agreed that the land will remain in the Kasura family in perpetuity.  It will never be sold, rather, it will be handed down from generation to generation.  It enables everyone to come back to their ancestral home to live and care for their aging mother.  It is exactly what his father would have wanted.  Alfred met Mike and Katie with a beaming smile.  Meeting the first born of the family is a big deal here, and it showed.  That is how I introduce her to those she hasn’t met, and it’s always followed with Katie smiling and her signature, “Hello,” that sounds like two words; “heh-low.”  The three of us chatted with Alfred for about 10 minutes.  Before we left, Alfred asked how everyone back home was, and asked about Andrea and her recovery.  That is a common theme with Isaac’s family.  We are all a part of each other’s family, and our mutual, genuine love we have for each other is palpable.

We had to push off, so back in the truck we go.

Another short drive, and another short stop.  This one was on the schedule, but I didn’t think it was today.  We were driving right by Isaac’s mother, and we had to stop.  I was very excited to see her.  When I saw her last, 6 years ago, she had just lost her husband and was recovering from a broken ankle.  As I entered the compound waving, this tiny 96 year old woman rose from her seat and began walking to me.  She had a cane in her hand, but it was more for balance than anything else.  No sign of any lasting effects from the brake; not even a slight limp.  That’s good, because this terrain is pretty unforgiving for a 85 year old… there’s not a flat lie anywhere.  She doesn’t speak any English, so Isaac translated as we introduced Katie and Mike.  “Karibuni, karibuni,” she said. “Big welcome, big welcome.”  She was very pleased to meet finally meet Katie.  She looked back and forth between Mike and her and just smiled.  To her, she was meeting grandchildren she only heard stories about.  

We went inside her new home.  Yup, she got one, too.  In 2019, shortly after I returned home from her husband’s funeral, Isaac and his brothers got together and built her a new house.  This one was smaller so that it didn’t feel so empty.  It’s the first time I’d seen plywood sheeting, and the walls and ceiling we covered with it; the floor a new smooth concrete.  It consisted of a single bedroom, sitting area, kitchen and bathroom.  Isaac’s brothers Alfred, David, and Anthony all live within stone’s throw away.  Because Isaac works so far away, and is gone for long stretches of time, Leah comes and visits with her mother-in-law at least once a week.  They have a wonderful relationship that is evident when you see them speaking to each other.  True to form, she sat down on the same couch that I was on and asked about Andrea.  “How is mum?”  As I updated her, she kept her gaze on me as Isaac translated, and nodded with each sentence.  She was very happy to hear that she was continuing to recover, and shared in Andrea’s sadness in not being able to come.  When a member of this family becomes ill, it weighs heavily on everyone’s hearts.  Andrea is no exception.  When I first called Isaac to let him know about the heart attack, he was overcome with emotion and had to hang up the phone before I heard him weep.  He called back a few minutes later to say, “I will make sure that all our family knows.” And he clearly did.

We continued talking as chai was poured into mugs in front of everyone.  It’s as warm as you’d expect Kenya to be, but the hot chai still tasted good.  Isaac’s mom even asked about my mother, and how she was.  As we sat drinking, Isaac pointed out the picture of his father on the opposite wall.  Mike quietly asked me who was in the other picture.  It was of a young man in a military uniform next to a second picture of that same young man meeting Kenya’s President Moi. “That’s Isaac,” I said quietly.  “No way!” exdlaimed, not so quietly.  “Isaac, that’s you?!”  “Yes,” he said as he rose and removed the picture from the nail it was hanging on.  Mike was surprised to hear that Isaac spent 5 years in the military.  Isaac is an amazing man.  He is wildly charismatic and engaging.  I’ve known him for almost 15 years and he still surprises me sometimes.  His brothers share those characteristics.

When our mugs were empty, we went outside for a picture before leaving.  She walked us

back to the hill and smiled and waved as we departed.  

It’s (still) a 2 hour ride to Nakuru, so we should be arriving around 1pm.  The conversation in the truck was lively the entire way (I’m assuming it was when I was napping, too).  It didn’t take long for Katie to break out her yarn and knitting needles.  Her and Mike were sitting in the 3rd row, and Leah and Caleb were in the second.  She and Leah started talking about knitting and after asking if she could try, Katie handed everything over.  She showed her particular technique she was using, and Leah went to town.  Katie was absolutely amazed at how adept she was at it.  Then Leah told her that they taught knitting in primary school when she was younger.  It was awhile before the needles and yarn were returned, and Katie was fine with that.  Leah continued to say that she doesn’t knit anymore, but she does crochet sometimes.  Katie was in heaven.

In the meantime, Isaac and I discussed the special needs school we were driving towards, as well as the two girls we sponsor.  One of the girls, Nasinkoi, has not been attending school.  She missed the last semester completely, and has been absent for the current one as well.  All we have been able learn was that her mother wanted her home.  We decided to develop a plan with the school faculty to try and remedy the situation.

Despite being in the last row, I could hear Mike commenting on the changing landscape, soaking it all in.  I do believe he is really embracing this trip and enjoying every aspect of it.

We arrived in Nakuru around 1pm and quickly made our way to the main office.  The “new” principal is 2 years into this job, and based on the discussion we had with him, I hope he stays for a long time.  He was engaging and well spoken as he discussed their educational philosophy that applies to a wide range of disabilities and ages.  Deaf, mute, epileptics, Downes Syndrome, physically and mentally challenged… they care for and about them all.  They work hard to break down the stereotypes that plague these marginalized students.  He gave us a tour of the school showing us the good, the bad, and the ugly.  The children are very well behaved and very few came up to us as we wandered around their school.  Those that did were met with kindness and compassion that was genuine.

We returned to the office and began discussing the challenges with Nasinkoi.  We were pleased to hear that he already has a plan.  He’ll be reaching out to the local chief who has been very helpful in situations like this.  He expects that he will be able to get the answers that we currently lack, as well as being able to encourage her mother to support her daughter’s return to school.  That will be followed up with contact from the head teacher and Nasinkoi’s advocate here at the school.  Leah will help, too.  Once the plan was agreed upon, they sent for Sharon to come and greet us.

Sharon entered the room expressionless.  It wasn’t until she got very close to us that she realized who we were.  She wasn’t wearing her glasses, so I knew that would be part of the discussion.  Despite his speaking Kiswahili, I was able to understand what he was saying.  He was commenting how special she must be to have that come from so far to visit.  They must love you very much.  She is, and we do.  Sharon and Nasinkoi are best friends, and Nasinkoi’s absence shows.  She is the more outgoing of the two, and without her here, Sharon is more quiet than usual, but we still managed to me intermittent smiles that she couldn’t stifle.  Someone was sent for her glasses and the conversation continued while we waited for them.  We will go to see her advocate/teacher to discuss her progress and see if there’s anything we can do to help.  The glasses arrived and we moved on to her classroom.  Sharon immediately went to her station and immediately began to do some beadwork making a necklace.  Her teacher, Rhoda was eager to discuss Sharon.  She explained that her beadwork is excellent, and she is also making scarfs.  The beadwork yields bracelets/necklaces that are combined with the scarves she makes and sold at market.  The child receives 10% of the money, 20% goes to any needs they may have, and the remaining 70% goes toward purchasing additional materials to sustain the program.  Rhoda explained that the biggest challenge is her sight.  She needs to stand 4’ from the blackboard to read it.  The plan is that Rhoda and the school nurse will take Sharon to the optometrist for a new eye exam and new glasses.  They’re going to get her there before their break on the 25th, and hopefully the glasses will be ready when she returns to school in March.  We thanked them for all that they do for these students (they call them “learners”) and how we can see how much they care for each and every one of them.  We exited the classroom and stood under a large jacaranda tree to recap what everyone’s role was going forward.  They keep us updated through Isaac as everything evolves.

It was now 2:45pm, and everyone was hungry and thirsty.  Isaac and I were about to get in the car when Leah asked if we could run into Naiva’s for some things.  Naiva’s is hard to describe.  First, it’s an enormous store.  The items they have would be like combining Best Buy, Target, and a supermarket together.  It’s like a Super-Walmart on steroids, but it appears as though VonMaur owns it.  It’s bright, shiny and immaculate. I’m glad Mike got to see one.  It’s not what you expect to see.  Katie’s never been in one either.  There are other similar stores that she’s seen, like Nakumat and Tusky’s, but those place can’t hold a candle to Naiva’s.  

Next stop - The Hotel Waterbuck.

We’ve been here before.  Nakuru is a very metropolitan city where all cultures intersect.  It’s on a main route from Nairobi to Masa Mara, and has some wonderful high schools, so wealthy families from the surrounding communities send their children here to board.  The Hotel Waterbuck exemplifies all of that. It’s a gorgeous hotel whose menu is incredible, offering everything from Indian, American, Italian and (certainly) Kenyan cuisine.  Isaac, Leah and Caleb each got traditional Kenyan meals, while I got chicken curry, Mike got a cheeseburger and French fries, and Katie got a Hawaiian Pizza.  I can tell you that we were all impressed at how good the all were.  Katie took her first bite and closed her eyes saying, “This is delicious!”  Mike followed suit.  Although I have to say when the burger first arrived, it was burger-less.  He picked up the bun and saw a sad piece of lettuce and an onion.  The waiter saw this and took it away saying, “It wasn’t ready yet.”  Nice attempt at a recovery, but the error was completely forgotten with the first bite.  Mike was also happy to see some tobacco sauce on the table so he could kick it up a notch.

Katie couldn’t finish the entire pizza, so we took it to go- Mike was sure he would have it in the morning.  It was now little after 4 and, with our bellies full, it was time to head back to Narok.

I was a mess most of the ride.  I was in and out of consciousness with Isaac apologizing every time he said something to me and saw that I was asleep.  It wasn’t a deep sleep though, it was more like a trance.  I would later learn that Mike (from their seats in the back) poked Katie and said, “Check this out,” pointing at me.  Allegedly, I was my head would slowly fall forward and I would then stay slumped over my legs before waking up a few minutes later.  Also allegedly, it was a “lather, rinse, repeat” scenario.  Katie said I looked like I was a living boomerang video.  She tried to take a video, but my period of unconsciousness was too variable.  Sometimes it was 30 seconds, sometimes it was 10 minutes, and she always got caught on the longer ones.  At one point, I heard Mike yell, “Hey, Adam!  Move yourself a little to the left.”  Each time I would slump forward, I was leaning toward Isaac who was driving.  His hope was that it would stop me from listing and take some pressure off my neck and spine.  It didn’t matter; the slumping continued.  

Night had fallen, and I wasn’t sure how far we were from Narok.  Leah made a couple requests that I did not understand, and Isaac pulled the car over in a market area.  Caleb got out and was going to buy some banana cake for Tatiana because she hadn't been with us all day. I have never heard of banana cake and assumed it was like banana bread. I was wrong when Caleb returned. He had a small paper bag that had too long pieces of cake in it, they are offered each of us a small piece, and I was very to try it. It is absolutely delicious. It tasted like the best banana bread you ever ate, but it had the consistency of a cake so it wasn't as dense. It really was great! Just about everybody continued snacking on it as we drove back to Isaac’s.  Soon thereafter, we made another stop. This time it was on the off the road opposite Alfred's hardware store. He came over to greet us one last time before saying goodbye and safe journey.  This time, I don't even think Isaac shut the engine off. This really was a brief stop.Despite the late hour, it was important for us to give Leah the opportunity to feed us. Shortly after we arrived at his house, Tatiana returned from school. This was the first time I've seen her in over six years and she'd grown into a beautiful young woman, tall and slender, wide eyed with a bright smile. She has changed so much in the last 6 years. She would joke around with Caleb as they passed Tiffan back and forth.  We watched as we waited for dinner.

Leah is a marvelous cook, but I knew she didn't want to keep us much longer than necessary. And a short period of time she whipped up goats to chapati and cabbage with carrots. I sometimes think that they're is an Italian mother somewhere in the Masai lineage. No sooner had we cleared our plates then Leah or Isaac were quick to bring us more. The Kenyan people lavish visitors with kindness regardless as to their station in life. We moved from the dining room to the sitting room and enjoyed a hot chai while we chatted more and continued watching  Caleb and Tatiana play with Tiffin.

Fatigue was setting in again, so we said goodbye to Tatiana, and “see you tomorrow to Leah and Caleb.  They’ll be joining me in the morning to do some shopping. Now, I just want to go to bed.  We gave everyone a hug before turning in.  My hands were saying “type,” but my mind was saying “Go to bed!”  I’m opting for the latter.  See you tomorrow.