Wednesday, February 19,, 2025

Tuesday, February 18, 2025

What a day we had!  The plan was to leave this morning at 8am.  We all walked down for breakfast at 7:45, breakfast was served at 7:50 (a pancake, a hard boiled egg, a sausage arrow root and something else I can’t remember) and Isaac arrived at 8:05.  Perfect timing… or so it seemed.

Making plans here is incredibly difficult because you just never know what could happen.  The plan was to be on the road to Nakuru at 8.  We left the Park Villa at 8:15 (only slightly behind).  Then we got fuel for the car an a canister of propane for cooking at Isaac’s house.  We then had a few “unofficial stops before we started for Nakuru.  We would be much later that even I expected.

The first stop was Isaac’s house.  It’s important to note that I know where Isaac’s house is, and I know how to get there.  This route, though, was not the way.  We were headed out into the rural part of Narok town, in the opposite direction of of the “Isaac’s house” that I know.  We turned down a very narrow dirt road, and drove straight for approximately 200 yards into a large area with approximately 12 homes - none of which was older than 5 years.  Ostensibly, this was anew subdivision.  He made a sharp left, and immediately backed up, then repeated that process until the  cruiser was up against a group of bushes on the side of the road.  We all got out, and Isaac said, “Welcome to my home.”  I said, “What?!  When did this become your home?”  Apparently, 2 years ago.  This  is beautiful.  Painted walls, tiled floors, family room, dining room, big kitchen, and 4 bedrooms.  So every time we spoke on the phone for the last 2 years when he said, “I am working on my home,” and followed it with what the project du jour was, THIS is what he was doing; not fixing the house I was familiar with, but building an entirely new one. Their son Caleb also has a small home within the same compound.  While girls don’t leave their home until they're married, but boys are out of the house when they’re 16.  Upon hearing this custom, Mike looked at Katie and said, “Wow, you would have been living with your parents until just last year.”  This resulted in a lot of laughter.  When I asked Isaac what happened to the old place, he said, “Oh, I’m renting that.”Good for him!  We sat with Caleb and waited for Leah to come out with there newest baby, Tiffany.  At 10 months, she’s
already got 4 teeth and can walk, provided she can hold onto something.  She also dances when she hears music.  I pictured Andrea sitting on the couch next to me, smiling at Tiffan and chatting with Leah about babies and their new home.  She would have loved to be a part of all of this, and I know she’s incredibly sad that she’s not with us.  

Isaac continued to show us around his new home pointing out all the “upgrades” from his previous one.  He’s also got a solar array in case the electricity goes out, and a tank that holds a ridiculous amount of rainwater - so much, that he hasn’t had to buy any since he’s moved in.  It’s been enough to carry him through long periods of draught.

Leah’s sister Joyce lives in the same neighborhood and she came over to scoop up Tiffany; she was watching her for the day, while Leah and Caleb joined us for the trip to Nakuru.  If Tatiana wasn’t in school, I’m sure she’d be watching her.  As a high school freshman, she leaves at 6:30am, and returns home at 6pm.  Those are long days by our standards, but here, it’s just school.

Joyce wrapped a shuka around her and Tiffan, instantly turning it into a baby backpack… her little face sticking out above the material.  She said her goodbyes to everyone and left to return to her home.  We left soon thereafter to begin the 2 hour drive to Nakuru.  Time check: !0:30am.

We were moving along at a pretty good clip, but it seemed like no sooner had we left, had we stopped again.  This time, just on the side of the road.  I looked up the small embankment outside my window to see Isaac’s eldest brother, Alfred, sitting outside his hardware store.  I hopped out of the truck to greet him with a big hug, and he met me halfway with a tooth filled smile.  He had recently retired from teaching, so he bought this hardware store and this is now where he spends his days.  He’s also got a posha mill next door where he grinds corn and wheat into flour.  It’s a really nice setup.  He now has a home on the same family plot where his mother lives.  Isaac explained earlier that after his father died, the sons all received plots so that they cold continue to farm the land.  They also agreed that the land will remain in the Kasura family in perpetuity.  It will never be sold, rather, it will be handed down from generation to generation.  It enables everyone to come back to their ancestral home to live and care for their aging mother.  It is exactly what his father would have wanted.  Alfred met Mike and Katie with a beaming smile.  Meeting the first born of the family is a big deal here, and it showed.  That is how I introduce her to those she hasn’t met, and it’s always followed with Katie smiling and her signature, “Hello,” that sounds like two words; “heh-low.”  The three of us chatted with Alfred for about 10 minutes.  Before we left, Alfred asked how everyone back home was, and asked about Andrea and her recovery.  That is a common theme with Isaac’s family.  We are all a part of each other’s family, and our mutual, genuine love we have for each other is palpable.

We had to push off, so back in the truck we go.

Another short drive, and another short stop.  This one was on the schedule, but I didn’t think it was today.  We were driving right by Isaac’s mother, and we had to stop.  I was very excited to see her.  When I saw her last, 6 years ago, she had just lost her husband and was recovering from a broken ankle.  As I entered the compound waving, this tiny 96 year old woman rose from her seat and began walking to me.  She had a cane in her hand, but it was more for balance than anything else.  No sign of any lasting effects from the brake; not even a slight limp.  That’s good, because this terrain is pretty unforgiving for a 85 year old… there’s not a flat lie anywhere.  She doesn’t speak any English, so Isaac translated as we introduced Katie and Mike.  “Karibuni, karibuni,” she said. “Big welcome, big welcome.”  She was very pleased to meet finally meet Katie.  She looked back and forth between Mike and her and just smiled.  To her, she was meeting grandchildren she only heard stories about.  

We went inside her new home.  Yup, she got one, too.  In 2019, shortly after I returned home from her husband’s funeral, Isaac and his brothers got together and built her a new house.  This one was smaller so that it didn’t feel so empty.  It’s the first time I’d seen plywood sheeting, and the walls and ceiling we covered with it; the floor a new smooth concrete.  It consisted of a single bedroom, sitting area, kitchen and bathroom.  Isaac’s brothers Alfred, David, and Anthony all live within stone’s throw away.  Because Isaac works so far away, and is gone for long stretches of time, Leah comes and visits with her mother-in-law at least once a week.  They have a wonderful relationship that is evident when you see them speaking to each other.  True to form, she sat down on the same couch that I was on and asked about Andrea.  “How is mum?”  As I updated her, she kept her gaze on me as Isaac translated, and nodded with each sentence.  She was very happy to hear that she was continuing to recover, and shared in Andrea’s sadness in not being able to come.  When a member of this family becomes ill, it weighs heavily on everyone’s hearts.  Andrea is no exception.  When I first called Isaac to let him know about the heart attack, he was overcome with emotion and had to hang up the phone before I heard him weep.  He called back a few minutes later to say, “I will make sure that all our family knows.” And he clearly did.

We continued talking as chai was poured into mugs in front of everyone.  It’s as warm as you’d expect Kenya to be, but the hot chai still tasted good.  Isaac’s mom even asked about my mother, and how she was.  As we sat drinking, Isaac pointed out the picture of his father on the opposite wall.  Mike quietly asked me who was in the other picture.  It was of a young man in a military uniform next to a second picture of that same young man meeting Kenya’s President Moi. “That’s Isaac,” I said quietly.  “No way!” exdlaimed, not so quietly.  “Isaac, that’s you?!”  “Yes,” he said as he rose and removed the picture from the nail it was hanging on.  Mike was surprised to hear that Isaac spent 5 years in the military.  Isaac is an amazing man.  He is wildly charismatic and engaging.  I’ve known him for almost 15 years and he still surprises me sometimes.  His brothers share those characteristics.

When our mugs were empty, we went outside for a picture before leaving.  She walked us

back to the hill and smiled and waved as we departed.  

It’s (still) a 2 hour ride to Nakuru, so we should be arriving around 1pm.  The conversation in the truck was lively the entire way (I’m assuming it was when I was napping, too).  It didn’t take long for Katie to break out her yarn and knitting needles.  Her and Mike were sitting in the 3rd row, and Leah and Caleb were in the second.  She and Leah started talking about knitting and after asking if she could try, Katie handed everything over.  She showed her particular technique she was using, and Leah went to town.  Katie was absolutely amazed at how adept she was at it.  Then Leah told her that they taught knitting in primary school when she was younger.  It was awhile before the needles and yarn were returned, and Katie was fine with that.  Leah continued to say that she doesn’t knit anymore, but she does crochet sometimes.  Katie was in heaven.

In the meantime, Isaac and I discussed the special needs school we were driving towards, as well as the two girls we sponsor.  One of the girls, Nasinkoi, has not been attending school.  She missed the last semester completely, and has been absent for the current one as well.  All we have been able learn was that her mother wanted her home.  We decided to develop a plan with the school faculty to try and remedy the situation.

Despite being in the last row, I could hear Mike commenting on the changing landscape, soaking it all in.  I do believe he is really embracing this trip and enjoying every aspect of it.

We arrived in Nakuru around 1pm and quickly made our way to the main office.  The “new” principal is 2 years into this job, and based on the discussion we had with him, I hope he stays for a long time.  He was engaging and well spoken as he discussed their educational philosophy that applies to a wide range of disabilities and ages.  Deaf, mute, epileptics, Downes Syndrome, physically and mentally challenged… they care for and about them all.  They work hard to break down the stereotypes that plague these marginalized students.  He gave us a tour of the school showing us the good, the bad, and the ugly.  The children are very well behaved and very few came up to us as we wandered around their school.  Those that did were met with kindness and compassion that was genuine.

We returned to the office and began discussing the challenges with Nasinkoi.  We were pleased to hear that he already has a plan.  He’ll be reaching out to the local chief who has been very helpful in situations like this.  He expects that he will be able to get the answers that we currently lack, as well as being able to encourage her mother to support her daughter’s return to school.  That will be followed up with contact from the head teacher and Nasinkoi’s advocate here at the school.  Leah will help, too.  Once the plan was agreed upon, they sent for Sharon to come and greet us.

Sharon entered the room expressionless.  It wasn’t until she got very close to us that she realized who we were.  She wasn’t wearing her glasses, so I knew that would be part of the discussion.  Despite his speaking Kiswahili, I was able to understand what he was saying.  He was commenting how special she must be to have that come from so far to visit.  They must love you very much.  She is, and we do.  Sharon and Nasinkoi are best friends, and Nasinkoi’s absence shows.  She is the more outgoing of the two, and without her here, Sharon is more quiet than usual, but we still managed to me intermittent smiles that she couldn’t stifle.  Someone was sent for her glasses and the conversation continued while we waited for them.  We will go to see her advocate/teacher to discuss her progress and see if there’s anything we can do to help.  The glasses arrived and we moved on to her classroom.  Sharon immediately went to her station and immediately began to do some beadwork making a necklace.  Her teacher, Rhoda was eager to discuss Sharon.  She explained that her beadwork is excellent, and she is also making scarfs.  The beadwork yields bracelets/necklaces that are combined with the scarves she makes and sold at market.  The child receives 10% of the money, 20% goes to any needs they may have, and the remaining 70% goes toward purchasing additional materials to sustain the program.  Rhoda explained that the biggest challenge is her sight.  She needs to stand 4’ from the blackboard to read it.  The plan is that Rhoda and the school nurse will take Sharon to the optometrist for a new eye exam and new glasses.  They’re going to get her there before their break on the 25th, and hopefully the glasses will be ready when she returns to school in March.  We thanked them for all that they do for these students (they call them “learners”) and how we can see how much they care for each and every one of them.  We exited the classroom and stood under a large jacaranda tree to recap what everyone’s role was going forward.  They keep us updated through Isaac as everything evolves.

It was now 2:45pm, and everyone was hungry and thirsty.  Isaac and I were about to get in the car when Leah asked if we could run into Naiva’s for some things.  Naiva’s is hard to describe.  First, it’s an enormous store.  The items they have would be like combining Best Buy, Target, and a supermarket together.  It’s like a Super-Walmart on steroids, but it appears as though VonMaur owns it.  It’s bright, shiny and immaculate. I’m glad Mike got to see one.  It’s not what you expect to see.  Katie’s never been in one either.  There are other similar stores that she’s seen, like Nakumat and Tusky’s, but those place can’t hold a candle to Naiva’s.  

Next stop - The Hotel Waterbuck.

We’ve been here before.  Nakuru is a very metropolitan city where all cultures intersect.  It’s on a main route from Nairobi to Masa Mara, and has some wonderful high schools, so wealthy families from the surrounding communities send their children here to board.  The Hotel Waterbuck exemplifies all of that. It’s a gorgeous hotel whose menu is incredible, offering everything from Indian, American, Italian and (certainly) Kenyan cuisine.  Isaac, Leah and Caleb each got traditional Kenyan meals, while I got chicken curry, Mike got a cheeseburger and French fries, and Katie got a Hawaiian Pizza.  I can tell you that we were all impressed at how good the all were.  Katie took her first bite and closed her eyes saying, “This is delicious!”  Mike followed suit.  Although I have to say when the burger first arrived, it was burger-less.  He picked up the bun and saw a sad piece of lettuce and an onion.  The waiter saw this and took it away saying, “It wasn’t ready yet.”  Nice attempt at a recovery, but the error was completely forgotten with the first bite.  Mike was also happy to see some tobacco sauce on the table so he could kick it up a notch.

Katie couldn’t finish the entire pizza, so we took it to go- Mike was sure he would have it in the morning.  It was now little after 4 and, with our bellies full, it was time to head back to Narok.

I was a mess most of the ride.  I was in and out of consciousness with Isaac apologizing every time he said something to me and saw that I was asleep.  It wasn’t a deep sleep though, it was more like a trance.  I would later learn that Mike (from their seats in the back) poked Katie and said, “Check this out,” pointing at me.  Allegedly, I was my head would slowly fall forward and I would then stay slumped over my legs before waking up a few minutes later.  Also allegedly, it was a “lather, rinse, repeat” scenario.  Katie said I looked like I was a living boomerang video.  She tried to take a video, but my period of unconsciousness was too variable.  Sometimes it was 30 seconds, sometimes it was 10 minutes, and she always got caught on the longer ones.  At one point, I heard Mike yell, “Hey, Adam!  Move yourself a little to the left.”  Each time I would slump forward, I was leaning toward Isaac who was driving.  His hope was that it would stop me from listing and take some pressure off my neck and spine.  It didn’t matter; the slumping continued.  

Night had fallen, and I wasn’t sure how far we were from Narok.  Leah made a couple requests that I did not understand, and Isaac pulled the car over in a market area.  Caleb got out and was going to buy some banana cake for Tatiana because she hadn't been with us all day. I have never heard of banana cake and assumed it was like banana bread. I was wrong when Caleb returned. He had a small paper bag that had too long pieces of cake in it, they are offered each of us a small piece, and I was very to try it. It is absolutely delicious. It tasted like the best banana bread you ever ate, but it had the consistency of a cake so it wasn't as dense. It really was great! Just about everybody continued snacking on it as we drove back to Isaac’s.  Soon thereafter, we made another stop. This time it was on the off the road opposite Alfred's hardware store. He came over to greet us one last time before saying goodbye and safe journey.  This time, I don't even think Isaac shut the engine off. This really was a brief stop.Despite the late hour, it was important for us to give Leah the opportunity to feed us. Shortly after we arrived at his house, Tatiana returned from school. This was the first time I've seen her in over six years and she'd grown into a beautiful young woman, tall and slender, wide eyed with a bright smile. She has changed so much in the last 6 years. She would joke around with Caleb as they passed Tiffan back and forth.  We watched as we waited for dinner.

Leah is a marvelous cook, but I knew she didn't want to keep us much longer than necessary. And a short period of time she whipped up goats to chapati and cabbage with carrots. I sometimes think that they're is an Italian mother somewhere in the Masai lineage. No sooner had we cleared our plates then Leah or Isaac were quick to bring us more. The Kenyan people lavish visitors with kindness regardless as to their station in life. We moved from the dining room to the sitting room and enjoyed a hot chai while we chatted more and continued watching  Caleb and Tatiana play with Tiffin.

Fatigue was setting in again, so we said goodbye to Tatiana, and “see you tomorrow to Leah and Caleb.  They’ll be joining me in the morning to do some shopping. Now, I just want to go to bed.  We gave everyone a hug before turning in.  My hands were saying “type,” but my mind was saying “Go to bed!”  I’m opting for the latter.  See you tomorrow.

 Monday, February 17, 2024

While I would have liked to get 6 hours of sleep, it turned out to be closer to 4.  I woke up for no reason, and tossed and turned for the next 30 minutes before getting up and showering.  It was already quite warm, but after not showering since Saturday morning, I was ready for some soap... and deodorant.

I quickly reorganized my bag and went outside to meet up with Katie & Mike.  They were already up, sitting at a table with Caleb and Isaac.  Even though the sun was obscured by some billowy clouds, the table umbrella still felt like it provided some relief from the sun's rays.  We talked more about the plans for the next couple days and made some minor adjustments.  Breakfast consisted of a plain omelette, a sausage and sliced potatoes.  Very tasty when you're hungry.  The coffee we had made me want tea even more. My day will come.  Katie and Mike drank a few pots of it, so they obviously enjoying it.  

Isaac and the hotel staff grabbed our bags and we were off.  First stop; The Giraffe Center.

They loved it!  The center has really changed, mostly because of COVID.  The place looks very unassuming when you first enter.  There was a lone employee standing at the base of a green, painted cement ramp.  If he wasn't handing out small gold bowls containing food pellets, you wouldn't know what this place was.   It actually doesn't look like a park at all.  Winding paths move you past a curio shop and small restaurant, then lead you up to an elevated hut.  In the past, that was where you went to see the giraffes, and they would walk right up to the guard rail to say, "Hello."  This time, the path continued in front of the huts.  There was a much more sturdy barrier separating you from the animals, and then there was another burlap covered barrier that prevented the giraffes from getting to close to you.  They were able to get their noses closes enough for their elongated tongue to emerge and remove a food pellet from between your index finger and your thumb.  As soon as you turn the corner, there they are.  I counted close to 10.  Most of them were quite young and had to lift their heads in order to retrieve a pellet.  An older one,  who was significantly taller, arrived and began moving his head over the barrier and reaching for some food.  He was a little more interesting because we could get a closer look at him.  His head was within inches of us.  The expressions on their faces was priceless.  I think this was a real treat for them.  Once all the food was gone, we made our way back outside where Isaac was waiting with our driver.  Narok, here we come.

It's about 11/2 hours from Narok, and the roads were good so we had no problems.  It also helps that it's downhill through the Rift Valley.  Coming back is never that easy.  Mike and Katie were chatty with Isaac and Caleb the entire way.  Mike was taking it all in, and Katie was pointing things out so that Mike didn't miss anything.  Women waving as we drove by their roadside produce stands,   men coming to the window hawking potatoes at intersections, and the scenery that makes you smile... children in different colored uniforms heading home for lunch, young men out grazing their cattle and goats... and then there's the landscape.  This really is a remarkable place.  

We stopped at a small curio shop and snapped some pictures overlooking the valley.  It's really impressive; the pictures don't do it justice.  We walked through the curio shop (don't worry, honey, I didn't buy anything) then went next door for a chai (tea).  I was really looking forward to it as I had coffee with my eggs in the morning.  When the British left Kenya, they left a lot of things behind.  One of them was terrible coffee (but great tea!). The tea here is usually made with water and milk and they use tea leaves, not bags (although bags are provided if you like your chai stronger).  It's also Kericho tea which is farmed in the town of Kericho a few hours from here.  It was delicious, despite the first sip burning my tongue.  Katie and Mike also had tea, and Mike really like it.  We saw something I'd never seen before, too.  As we looked over the side of the embankment, this beautifully colored bird flew by.  Katie noticed it, too, and pointed to a tree below where several had landed.  While we had our chai, Isaac explained that they are Bee Eaters although I'm not sure if that's their name, or that's just what they do.  He then explained that they eat bees, along with a detailed description of what the bee goes through before being injected.  Suffice to say that you don't wan tot be a bee in the Rift Valley - it's not a pleasant death.

We hopped back in the van and continued driving.  It was nice to listen to the four in the back constantly talking.  I was in the front seat and had a tough time discerning everything they were saying, but the conversation was lively and included lots of questions.  Mike spotted the baboons as we continued down the hillside, and I told him we'll see more of them Saturday when we're on our way back to Nairobi.  That ride is much slower, and gives you a chance to really look at them.  I'm sure we'll see them on the Mara.

We arrived at the Park Villa and I immediately noticed that, like the Giraffe Center, there were a lot of changes.  They added another restaurant, outdoor seating and a clothing shop.  The owner, Alan, was sitting outside at a table talking on the phone when we walked in.  He hung up the phone and smiled at us as we approached. My hello, was met with a "Welcome back," followed by Mike quickly introducing himself, and Katie being identified as my first born.  We moved to the other side of the patio and ordered some barbecued goat, kachumbari and ugali.  The driver joined us and informed us that he was a vegetarian - not very common in Kenya.  He had French fries, ugali  and cabbage.  I weep for vegetarians.  

We rose and walked over to the corner of the patio where there was a small sink and a soap dispenser.  In our experience, regardless of the tribe, all Kenyans wash their hands before eating.  Sometimes they can come to your table with hot water, a basin and a bar of soap, but this was all self-service.  You return to the table with wet hands, but that's okay.  Your hands usually air dry by the time the food arrives.

After the veggie plate was set on the table, the butcher came out with a couple large barbecued goat legs and began cutting off the meat into chunks and placing it on a plate.  It took him three plates to complete the job, and we almost immediately dug in.  It was delicious.  Strangely enough, the last time I had goat was over the summer, when Isaac made it for us in our home.  He came over to help celebrate Katie's wedding, and was happy to make a delicious stew with the goat meat.  In case you're curious, Wegmans sells Goa in the freezer section.  The only problem with getting it there is that you really need Issac to prepare it.  Okay, enough.  Back to lunch.

The kuchambari is basically, tomatoes, onions, and parsley, but this one included piri piri, which Isaac refers to as "tear gas."  This one was a lot lighter than usual.  It didn't even register on Katie or Mike's internal spice-o-meter.  I'm sure Isaac will try to remedy that situation - he's the consummate customer service representative.  Mike said he loves spicy food, and Isaac is eager to please.  That most assuredly means that we have piri piri in our future.  We cleaned most of the plates and went back to our rooms to get settled and perhaps take a nap.  We were to meet Isaac downstairs at 4 to run some errands and eat dinner.  That gave us 2 hours of free time.

Once I got "settled," I looked at my watch and sighed.  It was already 3:30, so there was no point in taking a nap.  Mike and Katie are next door, and I hadn't heard a peep since they locked it behind them.  In true Kenyan fashion, Isaac called at 3:45 to inform me that the car wash was going very slow and it might be better to meet at 4:30.  At 4:25 he called and said, "Can you meet me at the car wash.?  These guys are not very fast, so I have the driver from today to coming to pick us up at the car wash."  "We'll be there in a minute," I responded.  So Katie, Mike & I walked the couple hundred yards to the car wash.  This would be. good FYI moment.  The car washes here are nothing like the ones in the states.  They're basically a couple guys with a power washer and towels.  All the doors get opened, trunk included.  How else are you supposed to spray the inside of the vehicle?!  And yes, they do.  Everything gets wet and rubbed down.  In there defense, they really do a good job.  It's just that everything gets wet.

Anywho, the driver shows up, we hop in, and it's off to the races.  

Sidebar.  I just woke up.  I don't know how long I was out, but I'm still exhausted to I'll try to finish and get it posted first thing in the morning.  Have no fear, my "first think in the morning" is your 1am.

Okay, I'm back at it.  

We went to the "Hub" which is basically a 2-story quasi-outdoor strip mall.  They have the only Safaricom store in Narok county and I need a new SIM card form my modem.  Thankfully, Isaac knows someone there so they were expecting us.  We got the modem squared away relatively quickly and then it was back to the van.  roughly $30 fro 40gigs of internet... pretty good deal.  Let's see you match that one, Verizon.

As we were pulling out, a man walked up to the vehicle and Isaac said, "Hey! Do you know this guy?" We did. It was Isaacs cousin David (Anthony's son).  He actually was the one who did the most recent tiling project at the maternity!  We'll be going to see that one on Wednesday.  We chatted briefly before heading to an ATM to withdraw some money.  That was easy.

Isaac next wanted us to stop and see Kim. He is a local curio shop owner that I visited every time I was in Kenya.  He's close to the Park Villa hotel, and next door to a really good restaurant that we'd frequent.  When we pulled in, I noticed that the restaurant was closed.  That didn't bode well for Kim, as they were responsible for providing the vast majority of his customers.  Drivers would bring their guests here for lunch, and they would invariably visit the curio for knick knacks an chachkis.    Side note: there are 4 different ways to spell chachki.

We saw Kim walking up to the shop and Isaac said, "Go surprise him.  He doesn't know you are coming."  Surprise him I did, and he was very happy to see me.  My suspicions about the restaurant were correct.  He is struggling to stay afloat.  Regardless, I was going to let Mike and Katie pay the equivalent of $165 US for 2 small beaded bracelets and a bottle opener.  That's just ridiculous.  I realize that they enjoy haggling, too, but that kind of markup is offensive.  After some sad haggling, he settled for the equivalent of $15.  I gave him an extra 1,000ksh because I knew he could use it.  We exited the shop and began moving back to the Member's Club for dinner.

The driver dropped us off and left to go spend time with his family.  We won't see him again until Saturday when we come back to Narok on our way from Massai Mara.

It was beginning to to cool down (it was probably around 65 degrees) so we chose to eat inside a small private room at the end of the main restaurant building.  This was the place where I had fried potatoes for the first time.  Yes, that's exactly what they are.  They peel then boil the potatoes and quickly fry them to a golden brown.  It's like eating a golf ball sized French fry, but they're spectacular.  Katie and Mike loved them.  Such a simple thing.  We chose ku ku (chicken) instead of goat, and had a plate of spinach.  Everything was wonderful and we all washed it down with a White Cap (Kenyan Coors Light).  Everybody except Caleb... he had juice.

We were only a short walk from the hotel, so Isaac and Caleb walked us back.  It was pitch black, and very busy, but it was a level sidewalk, albeit an uphill climb.  We said our goodbyes and will meet up with Isaac and his wife Leah tomorrow morning at 8am to travel to Nakuru to see Sharon (one of the Downes Syndrome girls we help).  She's a sweetheart, so I'm looking forward to that.

I'm managing to speak with Andrea intermittenty through the day.  I do miss her so.  She would have enjoyed today (except Kim's curio shop), and I know we would have enjoyed having her.  Right now, she's too far away from me, and I'm too far away from her.  Shout out to FaceTime for helping to try and fill some of that void.

We will chat again tomorrow...

 Saturday/Sunday, February 15-16, 2025

Welcome back everyone, or anyone.  I haven’t had a Kenyan blog entry since 2019, so imagine some  may’ve lost interest, but I’m hoping that you’ll be pleasantly surprised that there’s another Kenyan journey about to begin.

First, I need to point out the elephant int he room.  Actually, there’s two of them, but you’ll only hear about one for now.  The sad part is that my telling you doesn’t make the elephant go away… he’ll be with me for the entire trip.  No reminder needed.

Andrea and I booked this trip with Katie and MIke, her (then) new husband.  Our dear friend Isaac attended their wedding and presented them with an extraordinary gift.  An all expense paid, 4 day/3 night stay at Entumoto Safari Camp.  Those that need a refresher on Isaac - he’s the GM of the camp, and the lead guide.  He, and his family, are also a part of ours.  But I digress…

Excitement for this trip continued to grow as we got closer to the New Year.  Mike has never been to Kenya, and it always makes these trips that much more special when new eyes join us.  It reminds us of each of our first trips, and the memories just cascade all over us.  Katie was actually the first family member to join me in-country.  

Here comes the elephant.

Shortly before Christmas, Andrea suffered a heart attack.  It was terrifying for all of us, and in many ways, it still is.  She is without a doubt the healthiest of us all.  She does everything your general practitioner wants you to do - daily exercise, good diet, lots of fluids.  On December 21st, none of that mattered.  We would later learn that it was due to SCAD - Spontaneous Coronary Artery Dissection.  You’ve probably never heard of it,(we certainly didn’t) and then’s because while there are thousands of studies on plaque and clogged arteries, there is one on SCAD.  The easiest way to describe it would to say that her heart was pumping so hard that it caused a tear in the arterial wall which then collapses, causing the blockage, resulting in a heart attack.  It’s been close to two months, and it’s still difficult to talk about.  Even as I type this, I’m wiping away tears.  The good news that she has no plaque anywhere.  None.  Not even a hint.  The only evidence is the stent that was inserted on 12/22/2024 where the spontaneous dissection occurred.  Unfortunately, everything else is just an unanswered question.  The single study done was on fibromyalgia patients who also had SCAD.  It’s more common in women, and even more common in women with fibromyalgia -  Andrea wouldn’t have been part of that study, because she doesn’t have fibromyalgia.  

Here are some of the concerning aspects of SCAD..  Because it’s a result of high pressure on your heart (high heart rate), she’s got to be very cognizant of her heart rate.  She had to keep it under 120 for the first month, then they increased it to 140.  If you know my wife, you know that those numbers are very low for a woman who exercised vigorously.  Her cardiologist said the collapse probably happened a couple days before during a Wednesday run, and didn’t present itself until late Friday night when she sat up in bed.  Meds help with the rate and give her the opportunity to work at a level she’s okay with while simultaneously keeping herself > 140BPM.  Thank you Peloton and Apple Watch alarm.  And while keeping that heart rate below that threshold helps lessen the likelihood of another occurrence, it doesn’t prevent it, and there’s no way of predicting or anticipating when it could happen again.  That realization is some of the most difficult aspects of this diagnosis.  Her cardiologist says, “It really messes with your mind.”  He’s right… and I’m not the one that had the heart attack.  We all, however, share the fear and concern about another occurrence.  That is why the seat next to me is occupied by a stranger.  She’s not allowed to travel outside the country for two years.  The idea of traveling to a third-world country was unthinkable.  Have you ever heard the expression, “A hospital is no place to get well?”  They say that in the states!  Can you imagine in Kenya?!

I know what you’re thinking, because I’ve continue to think the same thing - “Why did you leave her?”

This was an important trip for a lot of reasons - cue that second elephant.  I’m sorry, but it’s going to have to wait.  Ultimately it was the decision that was made.  I have been in close proximity since it happened, and this isn’t a “I’ll just run to Wegmans and pick some things up.”  We’re both nervous.  We’ve just got to miss each other for a week.  Karen & Alex (along with our almost 7 month old grandson, Dusty) and Kevin & Lindsey  are keeping a watchful eye on her while I’m gone, and one of Andrea’s best friends, Teresa, flew in from Indiana to spend 4 days with her.  Today (Sunday), they’re going with Karen to have spa day.  Hopefully that will be a nice start for a week that will pass quickly.

As to our travel plans… 

For the first time ever, we’re flying Air France through Paris to Nairobi.  Yes, I’m going to Paris without my wife.  Yes I left on Valentine’s day.  No, these thoughts are not lost on me.  In reality, Andrea and I have never really had a desire to go to Paris… although I’ve only seen the airport, I’m not impressed.  I am, however, impressed with AirFrance.  Nice airline with very nice flight attendants.  Unlike most of the other international flights we’ve taken, this group didn’t warm up to English.  If they said something in French (that I could understand via hand gestures and what they were holding - ie “Blah blah blah, ooh la blah blah” while holding a bottle of wine translates to “would yo

u like some wine”) and I responded in English, they would continue in French.  To parrot the wonderful Steve Martin, “It’s like they (the French) have a different word for everything.”  The food was delicious, but wasn’t crazy about the seats.  I didn’t sleep en route to Paris but managed to get a couple hours on the way to Nairobi.  Mike and Katie got a little shut eye, too.  

Flash forward to my current status.  It’s 1:26am, I’m sitting under a mosquito net at the Royale Hotel in Karen (an affluent suburb of Nairobi).I am surrounded by rickets chirping non-stop and guard dogs that are barking relentlessly.  No different that the US - one barks, they all bark.  Dogs are kept outside here and used primarily as night watchmen.  That means that anything that might cause a single dog to bark, ultimately causes literally a dozen dogs to bark.  It happens all hours of the evening, but that’s just the way it is.  

Turn back the clock a little bit.  When we exited the airport, Isaac was there with a big smile to greet us, along with his son Caleb who is now getting ready for college.  We learned that he wantsa to study aviation.  There’s not a pilot int he family, so it’s a good fit and, more importantly, it really interests him.  He’s grown into a nice young man, standing just a bit taller than Isaac.  He has Isaac’s personality, so he’s engaging and interested.  At one point, while we were updated everyone on our families, Isaac started talking about Tatiana (who’s still in high school).  He said, “Tatiana just talks and talks and talks.  She never stops talking!”   Caleb looked up at me and in the silence that followed Isaac’s statement, quietly said, “She’s our Karen.”  Now, if you know Karen, that’s hilarious.  If you don’t know our daughter Karen, trust me, it’s funny.

We had our drinks and hopped in a Toyota mini van for the ride to our current resting place.  When it’s this late, most of the hotels and restaurants have an iron gate with a watchmen to let you in.   Also when it’s this late, sometimes they fall asleep.  This guy slept like the dead.  After honking the horn multiple times, flashing our lights, and Isaac calling the front desk, we finally were granted access.   The girl who gave us our keys and showed us to our rooms was either new, tired, or both.  She fumbled with the keys before leading us to our rooms on the second floor (with my two - 60lb bags.  So there we stood in front of the rooms while she fumbled for the keys.  Me, Isaac, Caleb, Mike, Katie, our driver, the night watchman and this girl.  Keep in mind, this is Kenya to the route to this particular spot is somewhat unnerving in the dark at this time of night.  Not that there are hoodlums or anything.  It’s more  the fact that they don’t have OSHA and their building inspectors aren’t always consistent.  Take, for example, the stairs we climbed to get to where we are.  Some steps had a 8” rise, one was about 3”,  the rest were between 5’ and 6”.  Imagine climbing that at night, carrying luggage and backpacks, in the dark, and up a hallway that is no more than 4’ wide.Not for the faint of heart.  It only took 5 minutes for this poor girl to realize that we were in the wrong section.  So it was back down the hall, and back down the stairs.  After another 5 minutes, they found me a single, and Mike and Katie a double.  By Kenyan standards, they’re across the hall from me.  It’s important to note that the “hall” is outside.  I’m hoping that they’re sleeping, and I’m also hoping that soon I will be doing the same.

Katie and I are really excited for Mike.  It really is special to travel with someone that doesn’t know what you know.  She and I have talked at length about a lot of the things that he’ll see, but even with pictures, it doesn’t prepare you; and I’m not even talking about Masai Mara yet.  He is genuinely excited about all of it.  This place is a good entry point for him, and going through the first night in the dark (figuratively and literally) is also a good excercise.  He hasn’t been thrown by anything so far, and I’m pretty confident that he’ll hide it well it does happen; we’ll just have to wait until the ride home to hear about it.

Okay, that’s enough for now.  I’ve got a couple mosquitoes buzzing around my head and I want to make sure they’re outside the mosquito net. We’re meeting for breakfast at 8 - that’s six hours from now and I’m getting a bit sleepy.  See yo’all tomorrow. 

Thursday-Friday, October 17-18, 2019

Thrusday, October 17, 2019

Our plan was breakfast at 6:30am, depart at 7.  I was down at the dining area at 6:15.  We left at 7:45.  I watch in Kenya is a bangle.

Jack was driving again… his Toyota Probox waiting at the departure area.  This is normally a 2 hour drive.  He got us here in 1 hour and 15 minutes.  Crazy.  Let’s see if he can duplicate that success.

He couldn’t.  Still, one hour 35 minutes is very respectable.  We went directly to the meeting with Madam Wanjiko, the county education officer.  We met her at a restaurant, as she was having a meeting immediately following ours. 

She ordered something called “dawa.”  I’d never seen it before, and inquired.  It’s a mixture of ginger, water, honey and garlic.  You had me at, “ginger.”  I had to try it, so I ordered one myself.  It was absolutely delicious.  Even with the garlic.  If you’ve ever had a Stoney in Kenya, it’s like that, only hot.  The ginger can take your breath away if you’re not careful.  BTW, “dawa” means, “medicine.”

Madam Wanjiko was wonderful.  I relayed the conversations with Madam Tiampati and her needs vs wants for desks (which they actually call lockers) and beds and the dormitory.  Let’s cut to the chase.  She LOVED the idea for the “box” dorm to compete with the fancy shmancy dormitory that Entumot finished.  Oops.  She didn’t know that Entumto finished it.  “Why didn’t they come to me first, like you are doing?”  I couldn’t answer that, and neither could Isaac.  We just steamrolled ahead.  She said she’d take care of the desks and go visit the school to ensure everything is, “The way it should be.”  She is a very strong, very intelligent woman, who wants to see this school succeed.  I also explained that the school really needs to succeed because if they don’t, Entumoto may have to go elsewhere to build a clinic.  Then I hit her up for the primary school, too.  Karl had said that the school had fallen into disrepair after the orginal headmaster retired.   I explained to him exactly how I was going to present it to Madam Officer Manjiko.  “broken windows can be repaired easily, but if it’s an issue with he teachers or the head teacher, that is something that only you can decide.  It’s important, however, for the primary school to succeed because they are the feeder for the secondary school.  If both prove successful, they will bring about a clinic to care for the health and welfare of not only the students, but the entire community.”  It was the easiest sales pitch I ever made, and Isaac and I both believe it.  Now Madam Manjiko does to and I have confidence that she’ll be in both schools before the end of the month.

Good news, we learned that Vivian Mpeti (who was the health officer we dealt with for the maternity) has returned to the position after a brief departmental change.  Sadly, she wasn’t available.  When i say “she wasn’t available” I mean she wasn’t in the office.  Isaac can handle that one, though, so I’m not worried.  

We then went back to the Park Villa so I cold shower and change.  It had only been a few hours, but I was covered with dust from the drive on the mara road.  Dapash had them take me right to the room I was staying in - he remembered that I loved the shower. I still did.  When I came back downstairs, a decision was made to eat lunch there before heading to Nairobi to visit with the National Bank of Kenya.  While we sat eating goat and drinking a White Cap, we tried several phone calls.  None were fruitful.  NBK had set the deadline for September 30th, and there were no extensions.  They relayed stories of people have 500 of the 1,000ksh notes and they weren’t converted either.  I still have a trick up my sleeve, so my fingers are still crossed.  

Jacks won’t be taking us to Nairobi, neither will Samuel.  This time, it’s Isaac, whom I affectionately refer to as #2 (as in Isaac #2 for this playing at home).   He was great!  He was without a doubt the safest driver (besides Isaac) that I’ve ever had as our pilot.  We got through the Rift Valley and over the escarpment in record time.  Granted, he used both sides of the street, and occasionally both shoulders, but I never felt nervous at all!  IT really was great!  Before I forget, we stopped to do some shopping before leaving for Nairobi.  We went to several stores until I found exactly what I was looking for.  A couple of the shops were uncooperative, but the last one relented.  He was the one that got the money.  Similarly with the “special” shop where I found some beautiful carvings for Andrea.  Okay, now we can go to Nairobi.

We stopped in Karen at the Galleria Mall to have dinner before heading to the airport.  We went to the place we normally do although I suggested we go to Java instead.  I’ve been there before, and they have killer milkshakes… the prices are more reasonable, too.  Isaac said, “Let’s go to the regular one,” so we did.  It didn’t last.  Both Isaac’s opened the menu (which had gotten smaller) and I could see their eyes move across the items to see the price.  When they both looked up at each other, I knew we’d be leaving, and we did.  We headed over to Java where I got a strawberry milkshake and mushroom chicken.  Isaac got a veteran platter (I judged him harshly) and Isaac #2 got what looked like a turnover stuffed with ground meat.  We all loved the meals, and laughed telling stories as we ate.  We finished and headed to the car where I packed the purchased items into space in my suitcase.  Twende.

We parked the car in the garage and both Isaac’s took a bag and walked me to the gate.  We Facetimed Andrea so that she knew that Isaac got me here safely… it’s become something of a ritual.  I hung up the phone and turned toward my friend.  This would be the second time I heard Isaac’s voice crack.  “I’m going to miss you my brother,” he said softly, insisting that I call him as soon as I land in Rochester.  “I will, brother.  We will be together again in 4 months time.”  We gave each other a big, long hug.  “I miss you already, and I haven’t even left yet.”  He smiled, gave me a high five and watched me walk into the terminal.

The flights to Amsterdam and Detroit are behind me, and now I’m just waiting for my flight to Rochester.  I slept 5 hours of the 8 hour flight to Shiphol, and watched movies all the way to Detroit.  I highly recommend the following:  Alita: Battle Angel, Longshot (I laughed out loud A LOT at that one), Avengers: End Game.  The first two were new ones, not the last one.  We should be boarding the plane to Rochester, soon, so I’ll be signing off.  I know I need to add pictures.  That, however, will have to wait.  When I do get them posted, I hope they make the stories come to life.  Now I just want to be home.  When I get there, all will be well.

Wednesday, October 16, 2019

October 16, 2019

I told the staff that I’d have my coffee in the main tent.  Normally, they’d bring it up to your tent along with some breakfast biscuits, but I knew I’d be awake so rather than have them hick it up the hill, I came to them.  

I hopped in the shower, and after a couple seconds, hot water came pouring out.  It’s a “rainshower” type head, but I may have been standing under a waterfall!  It was phenomenal!  I got dressed in plenty of time, and made my way down the path.  The sun had already begun coming up, so the conservancy was lit up, but no direct sunlight had made it’s way in just yet.  

The coffee here won’t put hair on your chest, it’ll put it on your eyeballs.  A 50/50 mix with hot milk makes it tolerable, and a 1/2 teaspoon of sugar almost makes it enjoyable.  I should have remembered that and ordered tea.  That is as constant as the day is long.  Isaac and I were sitting having our breakfast when Jen and Jody came down.  Jody spoke.  It’s gonna be a good day.  I spent the day with them and our guide Abraham.  Jody really is quite sweet, and she definitely holds her cards close to the vest.  She’s actually just quiet and a definite introvert - if her behavior didn’t tell me that, her mother did.  I got both!  The best way to describe both of them would be this:  Jody is predominantly thought bubbles.  If she was a cartoon, there’d be the cloud like image above her head to reveal her thoughts.   I get the feeling that Jen, on the other hand, has never been anywhere near a thought bubble. If a thought crosses her mind, it crosses her lips.  Together, they are balanced.

We really did have a fun day; a remarkable day, in fact.  We started with a leopard.  No, not really.  As we drove through the conservancy on our way to the game park, we passed the following:  zebra, water buck Thompson gazelle, impala, heartbeasts, topi, cape buffalo, some ducks… not to mention countless birds.  Then we saw the leopard.  She had her eye on female impala and her fawn.  He sat absolutely still, eyeing them before darting out of the grass in chase.  Good news, they both got away.  

Abraham, like Isaac (who trained him) was wonderful at positioning the Land Cruiser where the animals were going to be, not where they were.  So while the other 6 or 7 vehicles jockeyed for position, we just waited for them to come to us.  Yes, they did.  the leopard walked right past our vehicle, then BAM!  He gave chase again, and so did we.  We drove immediately behind him like an impending ambulance chaser.  The patient was dead on arrival.  As we circled around him, we saw that the fawn’s neck was in her mouth.  (cue the music -Circle of Life playing softly in the background) She then passed in front of our vehicle again to catch her breath in the shade.  We took a bunch of photos as the fawn twitched in front of her; eventually falling still.  We moved on.

En route to lunch, the list of animals grew:  elephants, giraffes, cape buffalo, marabou storks, lilac crested rollers, hammer cops, and wildebeast.  And yes, more zebra and impala and heartbeats and gazelles.  Everywhere you turn, you see something.

We stopped for lunch under a the shade of a tree.  I can’t remember if we had already seen the hippo pool or not, so I’ll go on the assumption we hadn’t so you have to wait until we’ve eaten to hear about that.  Four chairs came from underneath the landcruiser, as did a folding table.  Jody hopped in to the back seat and started pulling cold beverages out - 3 cokes and a sprite.  I popped the caps off on the fender of the vehicle and helped Abraham remove a cooler from the backseats.  He began bringing out 4 place settings and various items to choose from- it’s like listing the animals - vegetable pizza, fried chicken legs, bananas, passion fruit, tomato/cucumber/onion salad, biscuits (that looked like muffins)… and other things that I can’t remember.  We ate slowly, talking in-between bites.  Clouds came and went providing additional shade.  After everyone was full, we helped clean up and hopped back in.

Now we went to the hippo pool.  Jen and Jody didn’t know it, but I did as soon as I saw it.  There aren’t many areas on the mara that have a round-about.  Well, that’s what it looks like.  We hopped out and there they were.  The water can sometimes be pretty gross and poo infested (I don’t mean the bear).  This time, the slime on the surface closer to the water’s edge.  The smell, however, was everywhere.  I was standing next to Jen and rattled a bush at the top of the embankment and all the elephants rose out of the water making noises and exhaling heavily.  I tried it again when she got her camera ready, but no luck; the hippos were onto us.  We wandered along the edge, looking down into the river at the various pods before getting back into the vehicle.  It felt great to walk and stretch our legs.  Three giraffe wandered around us before we got to far.  We watched them eat the acacia leaves and stare at us completely uninterested.  A little further down the bank, we spotted a large crocodile, but it was a bit anticlimactic.  He was motionless and the sun had already dried his back so he looked just like the stones he laid near.  Meh.

We went back looking for animals, seeing all the aforementioned again.  We then went back to look at the leopard who was now, nose deep into the belly of the fawn (increase volume on music playing softly in the background).  Wow, she was really gettin in there.  More photos ensued, and more vehicles came.  When guides see a vehicle off the path, it’s like ringing the dinner bell (no pun intended).  We were directly in front of the leopard and her kill, so we thought it best to let everyone else get a looks.  Twende (go).

The afternoon turned out to be a day for the cats.  We stumbled upon a couple different prides.  It was late in the afternoon, so they were in various stages of sleep.  Jody commented that they looked just like house cats; laying on their backs expecting to get their bellies rubbed.  No thank you.  The engine turning over was the only thing that got them moving, but it was just to roll over before returning to their REM.

We spotted some elephants as we drove and got closer so Jen could take some pictures.  She asked to get closer ones as she seems to have a good number of elephant backsides, but nothing from a more photogenic angle.  Well, she does now!  She was also interested in takin g pictured of a decaying animal skull.  I had that in the back of my mind and was looking for a good one throughout this game drive.  I finally said, “Simama,” (Stop) to Abraham ho stoped the vehicle and turned to me.  “Jen, you were interested in an animal skull.  Do you want the carcass, too?”  We had driven by a good one, and she became very animated when I pointed it out.  Abraham returned to the scene of the crime.  Jen was worried that the flesh would still be on it’s bones, but it was more ribs and vertebrae.  She took a lot of pictures, and the fun continued.  Cheetahs.

5 of them, actually, staring at a group of zebras upwind.  They slowly approached them, fanning out as they got closer.  I was very exited!  The zebras would move a bit, and the cats would close the distance.  While we were able to get some great pictures, it was to late in the day to wait for what could be hours to seem them down a zebra.  We headed back home admiring the landscape and animals.

It was time for a sundowner, but I had developed a migraine that the coke I had earlier was not helping with.  I went back to my room, took a pill and laid down after calling Ann.  Dinner was at 7:30, so I had some time to close my eyes.  I welcomed the opportunity.  When I came down, Jen and Jody were the only ones there.  I sat at the same table across from Jady and chatted until the sweet pea soup came out.  Like everything else I’ve ever eaten here, it was delicious.

Slowly, more people streamed in.  Sidebar - Although Jen and Jody were from Texas, they had no accents at all.  The only brief siting of their roots was when Jady said, “Ya’ll” during lunch.  While I’m on this sidebar, I’ll tell you that Kelly from New Zealand is really from New Zealand.  But her name is Anne.  You’d think I’d remember that one, but I don’t remember her saying it, and I mistakenly remember seeing “Kelly” on the birthday cake.  Oops.

She was back from a good day, too, and was leaving tomorrow.  She going to catch a  rugby match with her hometown All-Blacks in South Africa.  I couldn’t let an opportunity to pass by, so I told her about Katie and her high school/college experience playing rugby.  “Good for her!” she exclaimed in her best Steve Irwin impression.  I can’t help but see him every time she speaks.

Isaac brother Anthony arrived and came to give me a big hug.  I introduced him to the group as 2 new groups came in and sat at separate tables.  Karl, who was seated at the opposite end of the table said he wanted to move down next to me so I grabbed his chair and brought it to our head of the table.  Another lively conversation ensued.

He asked me about the stop at Siana Girls Secondary School, and I answered him quite plainly.  He’s familiar with the school and has done a few projects there.  Guests that come to Entumoto tend to want to “give back.”  Entumoto gives them an opportunity to visit a girls secondary school, a mixed primary school and a rescue center.  Entumoto customers have sponsored literally dozens of students over the years.  Interestingly enough, it’s a different partner that governs over their work in the community.  Karl’s passion is laser focused on conservation, not just for the animals, but for the tress and grasses… and not just for those, either.  He has marvelous plans for the symbiotic relationship between the Maasai and their spectacular environment, and has gone so far as to show them the importance of planting grass seed to replenish the food supply for these nomadic herders, who aren’t as nomadic as they once were.  Education was the driving force effecting that change.  You can’t be wandering all over the region and have your children attend school.  The math doesn’t add up.  Okay, I’m realizing that I’m way off script here.  Where was I…? Oh! Yeah!  Siana Girls Secondary.  So, when I met with the head teacher (principal), we talked about her needs versus her wishes for her school, as well as where the dividing line was.  As I was relating the story to Karl, he was surprised at the questions I asked as well as the answers I was given.  Because this isn’t his passion, but because he’s a partner in this endeavor, I wouldn’t be surprised if I hear from their “Community Projects” manager.  I got the impression that she doesn’t drill down the way that we do, and it might not be an idea to start.  He, too, feels a responsibility to their donors, and doesn’t want money to be squandered - it has to be sustainable! 

The dormitory that the government started, then abandoned before completion was something we investigated last year.  The bones of the place were in good shape, but the idea of a 2 story dormitory on this particular locale is a recipe for disaster.  Besides, we were told we couldn’t touch it - it was the governments to fix, and we would most likely be fixed by them… eventually.  Karl’s organization didn’t want to wait, and I can understand - the need is now, not in the future.  That dormitory is almost complete.  Currently, they have 160 girls sleeping in a huge teaching kitchen that Entumoto built.  We built a couple classrooms and are about to embark on another dormitory similar to their original dormitory that is now a classroom.  So, here’s what I discussed with the head teacher, and subsequently told Karl.  I asked her how many desks she needed and, additionally, how many beds.  The numbers she gave me were significantly closer to what she wants, not what she needs.  Based on the current enrollment and growth projections, she needs 90 desks, not 120.  Beds fell prey to the same logic.  She wants 160, but she only needs 80.  The desks should be a government supplied item.  When I asked why there were no desks in the classrooms we just finished, she said, “I though you would buy them.”  Nope.  That’s part of our understanding that everyone is a stakeholder in these projects.  If we spend $20,000 to build classrooms, the government (and/or community) should be able to come up with the $5,400 for 90 desks.  Next came the questionable decision on moving children around.  Try to follow this.  They moved the girls from the original dormitory to the kitchen.  The old dormitory is now a classroom, and one of the new classrooms is empty.  The other one was turned into a staff room.  That will not stand.  I told her that we’d be meeting with the County Officer for Education (although I did not know who she was, or her phone number, or if she was even available - it’s tough to get “next day” appointments).  She said she would call her to ask her for desks, “and we will have them.”  “Wakati?”  She resonded, “January,” but that’s not soon enough.  Additionally, when we committed to building a dormitory, it was going to be a duplicate of the one they had.  As a reminder, it’s the one they’re using as a classroom now.  The dormitory she wants has running water and indoor toilets.  That will cost close to $100,000usd.  That’s not going to happen.  Earlier in the discussion, she said the reason their were only 5 girls currently in their senior year, she said it was because of a lack of competition.  Culturally, that’s true, so I gave her something to ponder.  If we build her an 80 bed “box” dormitory like the one they originally had, she could move the highest performing girls into the one that Entumoto just finished-complete with running water and indoor toilets.  She didn’t like that idea much.  I was hoping she’d endorse it, but no matter.  I’ll run it up the flagpole with her boss in the county office to see if can’t get more traction.  As we left the compound, Isaac said, “Oh, Ahdahm.  You were very tough on her.”  He was smiling and shaking his head as he said it.  “Really?” I asked.  I thought I was holding back.  I had to ask a few more questions before I learned what “being tough” meant.  Apparently Maasai (and probably all Kenyans do like pregnant pauses.  “Now that you know we’re not supplying them, where are YOU going to get 90 desks?”  Start the clock.  I’m good at this silent staring game; I do it with the dog all the time.  She didn’t bark, though, instead she just lowered her gaze.  Not a great sign, but I think she got the picture.  I did start playing a little game to lighten things up.  I would be speaking with Isaac about the number of desks they NEED or the size of the dormitory they NEED, and without turning my head away from Isaac, I’d ask, “She’s staring at me right now, isn’t she?  Does she look like she just ate a lemon?”  With that, I’d turn my head to find her smiling.  Isaac, on the other hand, was belly laughing.  It was a good meeting.  If we’re able to meet with the county officer, it will be a better one.  

Here’s my problem, and yes, this is a hard right turn.  I’m writing a blog from Wednesday, which is a recounting of discussions on Tuesday, AFTER (spoiler alert)  we spoke with the county officer on Thursday.  Yes, we managed to have a meeting, but seriously, I can’t tell if I told you this stuff already or if I’m confusing my days… I’m sitting in the Detroit airport trying to get caught up, eating all kinds of food that I shouldn’t be eating after a trip like this.  I started with Popeye’s chicken (yes, it’s better than the KFC all day long; don’t even), now i’ve moved on wot pringles and swedish fish.  I make myself feel better by having a water instead of a Coke.  I’m pathetic.   For those of you saying, “At least it’s not another goat penis?” I hate you.  

I don’t hate you.  It’s funny stuff, and I’m sure I/we/you will be laughing at it for quite some time.  When in Rome, right?  Yeah, the Romans probably never ate goat penis.

I’m going to close out the day with that story.  We have to head back to Narok for a meeting with the county education officer at 10am, followed, hopefully, by a meeting with the county health officer.  You already know about the former, so keep your fingers crossed for the latter.  Spoiler alert.  She wasn’t there.

See you tomorrow… literally and figuratively.