Well, I never thought I’d have so much to write after only 5
hours in Kisumu, but I do. Interestingly
enough, most of it is thanks to Kevin!
We don’t usually expect much excitement prior to leaving the US, but we
certainly had our fill today. This trip was
put together very quickly with very short notice so I should have expected more
than, “Nuts! I forgot the mosquito
spray!” (Which I did, by the way).
Andrea and Karen dropped Kevin and I off at 4:30 Thursday morning. They were supposed to travel with us, but
some obstacles prevented them from joining us this time. I was grateful that
they came as I always get uncomfortable leaving them – I start missing them
before they pull away from the curb.
They had to, though, and Andrea grabbed a quick photo of the two of us
before we disappeared into the terminal.
We’re pretty sure it was posted before we got to the ticket counter.
Jetblue (always accommodating) was kind enough to link our
flight to JFK with our Emirates flights
to Nairobi. This means that we don’t
have to lug our bags from the Jetblue terminal to the international terminal –
it makes for a much more pleasurable walk.
As usual, we each had a back pack along with 2 large suitcases. We both had a suitcase filled with our
clothing and some essentials – you know, the same thing everybody else travels
with; beef jerkey bites (Jack Links are phenomenal), peanut butter &
jelly, Kellogg’s Pastry Treats and
Tootsie Pops. Karen also snuck a bag of
bar mix into my bag – I’m sorry that I can’t recall the name of it, but I know
we get it at the Christmas Tree Shop in Henrietta… who’d a thought? It had a short hand written note that brought
a smile from ear to ear… still smiling now.
That bag came in handy, but I’ll get back to that later.
We got our tickets and proceeded through security. Kevin went through first, then me. I’m always amazed that they don’t ask me to
dump out my bag. The contents usually
include at least one laptop, iPad, iPhone, Kenya phone, 35mm Camera Lens and
body, pocket sized camera, 4 bottles of prescription pills, Advil, Excedrin
Migraine, and at least 5 different chargers that range in size from the size of
my big toe to the size of my hand. Even
with all this, I never get a second glance from the TSA. They saw something on the x-ray of Kevin’s
bag, so they brought it to him, took out some items and rescanned them. I was watching this unfold from about 10 feet
away as I was trying to cram my laptop back into an already overflowing backpack. The second scan failed to resolve the
situation, so they took some more things out and ran it through again. We still don’t know what they saw or what
they were looking for, but they stopped after the 4th attempt. By this time, most of Kevin’s bag was empty,
and I was laughing. The poor kid was
getting more anxious with each trip through the x-ray machine. Once they apologized for the inconvenience,
he seemed to calm back down. He wasn’t
back to his normal self until we got to the gate. I thought I was in trouble when we walked by
the Dunkin Donuts and he said, “Nah, I don’t want anything.” Actually, I think he was just making good
choices.
The flight went without incident, and once in JFK we
proceeded to the international terminal.
Then we arrived at the
international terminal. Ya know those
bomb/drug sniffing dogs that don’t ever look like they’re really doing
anything? We found one that either
really liked the smell of cockapoo (our dog, Sox), or really liked the smell of
Kevin. I walked by, nothing. Kevin was right behind me, and as he passed I
could clearly hear the dogs claws on the linoleum floor. It sounded like he was trying to get to a
t-bone that was always 6” in front of his nose.
The TSA agent was holding on for dear life. He finally said, “Excuse me sir, I need you to stand still.” At that point, the other 75 people in the
line turned to see Kevin being greeted by the dog… as if he were a dog. Kevin said he started getting nervous when he
could feel the dog’s nose on his behind.
That Labrador sniffed every inch of him below the belt line. I was watching this in utter disbelief. My mind was saying, “Holy crap! Kevin must be
terrified.” Unfortunately, my face was
saying, “I wish I had video of this.” I
told Kevin that if it happens on the way back, he should insist that the dog
buy him flowers first. We laughed about
that incident for quite some time.
We grabbed a quick breakfast and proceeded to the gate for
our flight. For the last three years of
our travels, Emirates has always had a ridiculously inexpensive fee to upgrade
economy seats to business class. I must
have jinxed myself when I bought this set of tickets, however. No specials, no sales and no chance at a
complimentary upgrade due to my status with the airline – I’ve reaped the
rewards of that many times, but today I learned that they only do it when
they’re overbooked. We’ll make the best
of it with exit row seats. We made a
decision earlier to use the mileage for the business class upgrade for the 13 ½
hour flight back from Dubai to JFK.
Kevin slept most of the way and thankfully so. He got a migraine within the first hour. He was fine once he woke up. I, on the other hand, couldn’t fall
asleep. Will wonders never cease. Right now, I’m really wishing I had. I have no idea how I’m still awake. I didn’t sleep more than an hour for the 12
hour flight to Dubai, and I may have had another hour on the 5 hour flight from
Dubai to Nairobi. Regardless, I was happy
when the wheels touched down in Africa.
The Nairobi Airport was a mess. We couldn’t tell if it was construction from
the fires last year, or they’re just upgrading it. All I can tell you is that we never walked
down a jetway and never walked inside the terminal. We walked out of the plane and was pleasantly
surprised with mid 70s temperature as we made our way down the stairs to the
tarmac. There, we were herded into buses that drove us around the terminal to
what I can only describe as the basement of the airport. We walked inside and were hurried through a
makeshift immigration counter… then another makeshift customs counter. 10 steps beyond customs, and we were outside. We meandered around the buildings until we
got to the domestic terminal. We only
had a short wait for our flight from Nairobi to Kisumu. It was really close to two hours, but it went
fast because I spent that time swapping out sim cards trying to get my Kenyan
phone to work. No luck. Andrea, Karen and Katie would have to wait for
a phone call until we got to Kisumu.
Kisumu was also pleasant and comfortable – a big contrast from the
customary high temperature/high humidity.
The sky was a dark grey and although looked forboding, there wouldn’t be
any rain for the remainder of the evening.
We got our bags and met Job on the other side of the doorway. Kevin got out before me, and had already begun
joking around with him. We met with big
smiles and hearty handshakes. I was
nervously looking around for our friend Isaac, but he was nowhere to be found. Job informed me that his “brother John” was
picking us up at the airport, but Isaac would meet us soon – he was coming from
a meeting at Masai Mara. Well, after a
telephone conversation with Isaac, we learned that John is a “Cousin/brother.” That explains why we haven’t met him yet.
We’ve met most of Isaac’s brother over the last 8 years, and I was somewhat
relieved to learn that we didn’t completely miss one. He drove us all into Kisumu where we got all
the necessary pieces to get our phones and modems working. Now if only the service worked! The sun was dropping below the horizon, and
darkness was fast approaching. The
streets of this city can be likened to any movie scene in Bangladesh. You’ve got to be mindful of people walking,
people riding bikes, people in tuk-tuks (3 wheeled mini taxi), piki pikis
)motorocycle taxis, other autos, and huge trucks. Did I mention darkness? There are very few
streetlights here (and traffic signals for that matter) so while your dodging
all of these potential accidents, you’re also trying to continue to move
forward. We eventually made it out of
the city and headed down the road to Maseno.
It’s a 45-minute ride, and you never know what you might come across.
By now it was about 8pm, and it was pitch black. The stars were the only lights beside the
headlights of oncoming traffic. This
ride is usually one of the more “dicey” paths we take, but it’s the only road
we can take. The smooth asphalt is interrupted by potholes
large enough to eat your car.
Literally. If you think the
potholes in Rochester/Buffalo are big, you have no idea. Then the asphalt runs out. Busia Road runs for a very long way… from
Kisumu through Maseno, onto Luanda and beyond.
It’s a main route for tankers and lorries, so you’re sharing the road
with these enormous diesel vehicles.
When the asphalt runs out, all the vehicles in front of you are kicking
up a fine, red Kenyan dirt that’s more like a heavy dust. Mix that with thick diesel exhaust and you
have the perfect recipe for nausea and headaches. Rolling the windows down did little to ease
the smell. I guess it’s just something
you get used to.
We made it to the Peacock Hotel at about 9:15pm. We ordered dinner – kuku (fried chicken),
skumawiki (kale) and chipate (chipate).
Chipate is like a cross between a soft shell taco and pita bread. It’s made with corn flour and then cooked in
a hot pan. They’re quite tasty. We finished dinner at about 10:30pm. Yes, time moves slowly here. Actually, it’s more like there’s no sense of
urgency. If you lack patience, a trip
here can be daunting. Chakula ni kitamo (the food was delicious) and so was the
cold Tusker. Kevin retired and I started
typing this blog. It’s now 12:30am, and
still no sign of Isaac. Two hours ago he
was 45 minutes away. We know he’s ok
because Job has kept tabs on him, but our greeting will have to wait until
tomorrow. I’m exhausted and we’re
getting up at 7am tomorrow to get things started. I look forward to seeing the beautiful
countryside in this remote part of Kenya, and seeing the friends that we
haven’t seen for almost a year. I’ll
have this posted as soon as I can. The
internet service here is very difficult to maneuver as we’re situated in a
valley. It will make Kevin’s homework
assignments all the more difficult.
We’ll have our laptops with us when we get to Mbaka Oromo tomorrow, and
the service there is great. What we
can’t accomplish on the computer here, we certainly can finish it when we get
there.
I'm sorry there aren't any pictures with this blog. I'm sure I'll make it up to you.
Regardless, I’ll see you all tomorrow. Sweet dreams.
Andrea, Karen and Katie… I’ve been thinking about you since you left the curb. Love you.
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